Cactus treatment

1. Spotted cactus

Spots appeared in the spring, presumably - this is a fungal infection, anthracnose (brown spot).

Recommendations (Natalie): cut out the affected places, powder with sulfur, and treat the cactus itself (whole) with fundazol. Brown spotting is contagious .
In addition, it is quite typical for cacti when the fungus is
simultaneously with the tick, so wet treatment (spraying and watering) with insecticides and acaricides causes the development of fungus, in which case dry treatment (powdering of cactus and soil) is recommended.

In general, fungal infections appear when the cactus is in adverse conditions. With a lack of light, high humidity and excessive watering.

2. Mamillaria

Black dry spots around areoles, falling spines in these areoles. Presumably black rot, which could appear for the following reasons: mechanical damage to areoles (for example, during transplantation or transportation); contaminated soil; waterlogging combined with lack of light.

Recommendations (Anyuta): cut to healthy tissue, treat wounds with greenery, fungicides.

The cactus was already bought with yellowness, most likely with a fungal or bacterial lesion, but lived for almost four years before other symptoms appeared: lethargy, drying out of the papillae. Unfortunately, the cactus was already useless to save.

4. Echinocactus

It was affected by a root worm, the roots dried out, after trimming the stem, it ended up inside an orange color .

Serbin: It's a putrid infection. Also, it can be a virus when the plant slowly loses its green color and gradually dries out from below. Treatment is futile.

1. Age testing

It begins to appear at different ages, depending on the type of cactus and on the correct content. With proper care, testing really occurs in an adult cactus (remember that the age of growing up is very different for different cacti).

In case of small violations of the mode, testing begins earlier, the main reason for it is water with cold air. It is impossible to correct the sampling, you can only re-root the top and grow the specimen again.

But do not confuse sampling (cactus tissues are hard) with stem rot, when the surface also becomes light brown, but soft, squeezed under the finger.

A brown crust at the base of the stem can also form when watered with hard water. And also if the cactus is planted in alkaline soil.

2. Testing the cactus from ticks

Rapid and extensive prickly pear sampling is sufficient. Opinions were expressed about tick damage and rapid testing due to improper care, but they did not come to a consensus, and the hostess no longer applied. But there are cases when the actual barrel of the cactus was covered with a strong crust after being hit by ticks - the wounded epidermis was scarring.

3. Cactus body cracks

They appear primarily due to excessively fatty earth containing an excess of trace elements, overfeeding with fertilizers, overflow. If cracks occur, it is better to make sure that a fungus does not start on a fresh crack. This defect cannot be corrected .

4. Spots on the coryphant

Colleague: most likely, this is a feature of the coryphant, in which juice is released from the areoles and leaves such traces on the body .

Oddly enough, apart from weights, only one cactus was poured in three years. The bay was the result of warm wintering and frequent watering. It should be understood that at high temperatures in winter, the cactus will not sleep normally, so it can dry out completely without watering in a few months.

Therefore, it is necessary to water it very carefully: either check the soil, or water only after wrinkling. Another mistake is watering a little, the cactus will still not get water, but the root neck will suffer. It will suffer even when the earthen lump is too dense, stuck together and the water stagnates on the surface for a long time.

On the recommendation of Pola, the cactus was re-rooted: first, the roots were cut off. But this would not give anything - it is necessary to cut off the entire lower part of the cactus trunk, to healthy tissues.

Here you see two slices: the first is wrong - traces of rot are visible on the slice. The second photo shows that the cut is clean!

After 9 days of drying, k-berd put it to rooting over water. The roots appeared after 3 months, but the humidity from the water in the glass turned out to be critical, I had to dry again and root it already on dry ground.

To the credit of the forum residents, only two cacti fell on the materials of the topic in three years.

Astrophytum fall, root neck collapse. Alexander put on rooting, first dried for about two weeks, then put over a glass. A week later, roots appeared.

For several years, a fairly large number of cacti of the Masch forum participants did not grow in the literal sense of the word: not a single new areola, no increase.

History:
Mineral substrate: coniferous ash + sand + brick, upper and lower drainage.
Watering: like all cacti in summer - as they dry out, in winter - without watering.
Fertilizers: the first year fertilized - no results, then did not feed - also no results. Transplant: twice in the spring, examined the roots.
Lighting and location: in summer - on the street (southwest), in winter - on the windowsill at a temperature of 11 degrees and additional light. There are no pests.

Natalie: Many cactus species grow normally at acidity between 4.5 and 6, some and in near-neutral reactions (6.5-7). Soil consisting mainly of coniferous land may have a too acidic reaction (pH <4.5) and have unfavorable physical properties. Due to the lack of bases, organic matter in these soils is not fixed, the soils are depleted of nutrients. Although this land is initially just as low in nitrogen. And although the need for this element in cacti is not as great as in other plants, the lack of nitrogen leads to stunted growth.