Buying roses
First of all, I try to buy a healthy plant. I inspect the store for pests. The size of the flower depends on the size of the wallet at one time or another. In principle, you can quickly collect a collection of different roses by buying tiny pots for 100 (or even cheaper) rubles. Rose is a fairly fast-growing plant, so you don't have to worry about size. In a couple of months - the plant can reach quite decent sizes.
After buying a plant, I try to immediately (well, or within a week) transfer the plant to a slightly larger pot. The pot must be necessarily with drainage holes. I pour drainage (small or medium expanded clay) on the bottom of the pot with a layer of 2.5-3 cm. I take the purchased soil (I try to choose a special one, for roses, or a universal flower one. I prefer Vermion or Seliger Agro). I pour some soil into the pot, then pull the rose out of the purchased pot (without destroying the earthen lump) and put this "lump" in a new pot, so that the purchased layer of land is slightly lower than the level of the new pot .
Care for Roses - in the Encyclopedia of Houseplants section.
Frequently Asked Questions About Roses
Then I pour, fresh earth into the gaps along the edge of the pot. I compact the land and add a little more land so that the top layer of land does not reach the very edge of the pot (for convenience when watering). Then I water the transshipped plant abundantly, spray it with a solution of Epin or Zircon (1 ampoule per 300-500 ml of water) and put it in a shady place for about a week. You can spray with stimulants not immediately, but, say, a day after the transplant. Then, after the plant has adapted to room conditions, I move it to a permanent place. Preferably on the southern windowsill. Or on any other where the sun happens (but, to be honest, my roses have lived on an absolutely northern window for almost 2 years! There was no sun at all! And they grew and bloomed like crazy!). Just for as long as I know, roses still prefer southern sunny places.
How to water roses
Watering - as the soil dries. I shed the plant abundantly after the drying of an earthen coma. On sunny days, I can water every day (provided that the plants are on a sunny windowsill). Watering in the morning or in the evening so that the roots in the sun do not "boil."
Spraying - it is advisable to spray every day (even several times a day). Humidity prevents spider mites from appearing on plants. It is not bad to sometimes rinse plants with a warm shower (well, or, as some call a "hot shower," i.e. water temperature is about 40 C 42 degrees). If possible, then I do this procedure once a week. Plants really like it. After such water procedures, it is advisable to leave the plants in the bathroom until they dry as much as possible. So that the plants seem to stand in the "steam room."
Feeding roses
You need to feed the roses one and a half to two months after the transplant, if it was carried out. If the roses were transferred to a new pot, preserving part of the old land, then you can feed it in a month. Fertilization is allowed only on moist soil, during the period of active growth - from March to September. Special fertilizers for roses or fertilizers for ornamental flowering, potted plants or garden flowers are used as top dressing: good reviews for fertilizers from Pokon, Agricola, Fertica (Kemira), Merry flower girl, etc. You can combine fertilizers for roses: at the beginning of growth, add fertilizers of nitrogenous preparations, that is, for leaf growth (for example, Uniflor Rost), and after a month fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus (for flowering, for example, Uniflor Buton).
All types of fertilizers should be diluted strictly according to the instructions, the dose should not exceed, feed roses every two weeks, or more often, for example, once a week, but breed fertilizer in half a dose. Fertilizers in the form of granules or sticks can be used. But I prefer liquid fertilizers.
Pruning roses and transplanting
In late February, early March, I cut off the bushes. I form at will. Short enough. This year I watered and sprayed the bushes with the drug "Athlete" (according to the instructions) in order to slow down the growth of plants. The result is very positive. The leaves became brighter, darker, and the bushes remained compact for a long time.
I usually transplant every year into fresh ground in a slightly larger pot. If the pot is not so small, you can replace only the top layer of the earth, and make a transplant, say, in a year.
Rose pests
The most common pest found on roses is the spider mite. Small brown insect, at the initial stage of infection of the plant is poorly distinguishable. At later stages of the development of the disease, plants are covered with cobwebs, on which you can already clearly see moving brownish dots. To detect a pest at the initial stage of development, you should inspect the plants at least a couple of times a week. First of all, carefully examine the underside of the leaves. At the same time, one should not neglect the outside of the sheet, on which one can see, as it were, discolored spots or even dots, which may also indicate the presence of a tick. Also, partial yellowing of the leaves can signal the presence of a pest.
Methods of combating spider mites - spray plants with Actellic or Fitoverm solution (dilute according to the instructions). I dilute one ampoule into 500ml of water. Actellic is undoubtedly stronger than Fitoverm, but the second has a less strong chemical smell. Spray very abundantly, paying special attention to the underside of the leaves. You should spray on the balcony (in calm weather) or in the bathroom. Leaving the plant there until complete or maximum possible drying. I do this procedure literally in 4-6 days. About 3-4 times. And then, as a prophylaxis, every 2-3 weeks.
Roses in winter
My roses winter in exactly the same way as the rest of the plants. That is, on the windowsill. My windowsill usually has a temperature around 13 degrees. This is enough not to "bald," but not to grow. My bushes are green, without pests (fortunately for them it is too low a temperature!). I water much less often than in summer. I just make sure that the leaves do not fall (do not subduct). Usually it turns out not abundant watering once a week. Sometimes I spray or wash the plants with a warm shower. In winter, I do not feed or prune plants .
Color variability in roses
Sometimes you have to observe a change in color in rose flowers. This is especially true for yellow shades. For example, you buy a bright yellow rose, and on the second bloom it produces faded flowers. Or orange flowers tend to bleach. What this is connected with, I find it difficult to answer. It can be with soil acidity, or with top dressing, or with illumination. True, I noticed that after watering the plants with "Athlete," the flowers and leaves of roses became brighter.
The leaves became dark green, and the flowers acquired their original color. But, these are just my observations. Also, I noticed that in subsequent blooms (after purchase), roses change their terry. They don't get as graceful as they get when you buy them. They become more terry - shaggy. And also, white rose flowers tend to turn green (but it's also a mystery to me why this happens ).
Author of the article barsuchok