Roses are loved by everyone both in bouquets and on windowsills, but how often those who took up their cultivation and breeding face problems. There are many questions, but there are three, the answers to which are of interest to everyone :
- How to fight a tick on roses
- How to arrange roses for the winter
- How to care for a pot rose after purchase
Care for Roses - in the Encyclopedia of Houseplants section.
We conducted a survey among flower growers who have been growing roses for several years, and here are the answers:
Spider mite on a rose
Berry: I couldn't find anything better than a phytoverm to fight the tick. Moreover, the testing of other tick remedies on roses ended unsuccessfully, there was some kind of massive yellowing, and I associate it with the change of funds. Returned to phytoverm - mass yellowing has not yet been repeated. I try to process for prevention quite often, at least once a month.
Irina-bahus: As a prevention, a weekly hot shower (water temperature is not much higher than body temperature), with a tick invasion (rarely) three times spraying with phytoverm or actellic with an interval of 10 days, I spray in the evening, at night under the bag, in the morning I open the bag.
Severina: I fight the tick with the help of chemistry, I spray with actellic, neoron if the tick population is already large enough and with phytoverm - if it has not yet bred too much. If I am not lazy and do not forget, then once a month for prevention I water under the root with non-phytotoxic drugs, the same actellic or phytoverm. With each subsequent etching, I change the drugs. This is so that the pest does not have an addiction to the drug.
Ljuba: On roses, the tick appeared for the first time only this summer. Until now, if there was, so in very limited quantities. After the purchase, she wiped the leaves and twigs with medical alcohol (the roses were still small). Sticks of systemic insecticide stuck into the ground. They are sold with us, help from mites, aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, whiteflies and other pests. Powdery dew periodically appeared on one rose, sprayed with tea from garlic. While spraying and prophylactically and other roses, the tick did not appear, this summer it relaxed a little, forgot to insecticide and spray all the roses. On the one that was sprayed with tea all the time, the tick did not appear, on three - it appeared in limited quantities (still without cobwebs). Sprayed with Omite insecticide (Slovak), recommended specifically against the tick. Helped, but I don't like it, burns may appear on flowers with delicate sheets and flowers (personal experience). So it's better to go back to prevention with garlic tea.
Recipe from a tick on roses: 70 g of peeled and chopped garlic pour 1 liter of hot water, insist for at least 6 hours, do not breed. Spray the roses, wetting the leaves on both sides. After 3-4 days, repeat, and so 3-4 times. There is no need to wash off the solution.
marie: I fight a tick on roses with a soap solution (we sell a special solution in Montreal, but it is ineffective). A hot shower helps better. The water temperature is tolerably hot for a person, it was not measured with a thermometer. I also tried a cold shower, but there is little sense. She arranged a shower often - about once every two weeks.
Folk remedy for tick and powdery mildew on roses
Morela: I will share folk remedies for tick and powdery mildew on roses.
- A decoction of field horsetail - strengthens the tissues of the plant and helps well against powdery mildew, rust and the notorious red spider mites.
- Preparation: put 1 kg of fresh or 150 g of dried field horsetails in a plastic vessel and pour 10 liters of cold water. Leave all this to infuse for 24 hours. Then, covered with a lid, cook over low heat for 30 minutes to release silicic acid. Then remove the lid and leave to cool. Strain and pour into a plastic container. For spraying, the broth is diluted with water at 1:5.
- Use: for prevention, spray the entire plant on especially hot days, before the onset of heat (then the effect of the decoction is strongest). Additionally, the roots are also poured with decoction. If necessary, the procedure is repeated several times.
- Important: the decoction retains its properties only for two weeks. When starting fermentation, the broth is used only for irrigation (for this, 1 liter of broth is diluted in 10 liters of water).
- Personal advice: do not keep the broth in metal utensils, because acid eats it away.
How to care for roses in winter
Berry: Wintering roses according to the rules should be cool, about 10-12 degrees. Until now, I have not been able to create such a wintering for them, the smallest could provide 17-20, and they do not feel very at such a temperature. It's hot. I water in winter as standard - without letting the earth dry out. Again because it's hot. I often spray, they react poorly to dry air from central heating. In general, they react badly to the heat in winter.
Irina-bahus: My rose winters with cacti at + 6-10 degrees, watering is rare, no more than once a month, and not plentiful. Before wintering, I cut leaves and especially long branches to fit between the frames. Watering is reduced gradually. Wintering approximately from late October - early November to March.
Severina: Roses stand on a glazed loggia in winter as long as possible due to weather conditions (up to + 5C). This winter they stood until the end of December, the door to the loggia from the apartment was open. With the onset of severe frosts, she transferred them to a room, placed them in plastic bags, wrapped them in a newspaper and put them on the lower shelf of the refrigerator. Trimming was not carried out, only those branches that did not fit were trimmed to an acceptable length. Three weeks later, during the inspection, I found that the branches in the places of cuts and the soil began to be covered with mold. The roses were dried at room temperature for 2 hours, wrapped in one newspaper and placed again in the refrigerator. With periodic examination (once every 2 weeks) and light moisturization, they were in the refrigerator until spring (2 months), after which they were removed, warmed up at room temperature for about 5-6 days, transplanted and cut off.
If winter is initially cold and there is no way to keep roses on the loggia for a long time, I place them on the windowsill under a 40 W fluorescent lamp, do not cut them off, water them as the earthen coma dries and not so abundantly, periodically etch them from the tick, mine, spray them. In the spring, the procedure is the same - transplantation, pruning.
Ljuba: I bought my roses in winter. So they spent the first winter in an apartment, in a room with a reduced temperature, sprayed every day. But when I bought a mini-rose with a frost-resistant sign, she did not like the apartment, I had to move it to the corridor. In the corridor, the temperature in winter is 5-10 ° C, one wall is off the glass, so there is enough light there. The leaves were dropped only when new ones began to grow (late January). This year I want to try to leave them on the terrace with security. I also have medicinal plants so winter. The pot is wrapped in a film with air bubbles, and the upper part of the plant is covered with special material to protect against frost. When it does not freeze - polish.
marie: For the winter, roses were placed between the frames of the window. The pots were on plastic coasters. On particularly cold days, the inner frames pushed back. Watered only when the ground in the pot dries well - literally to the creak. Then she watered - on a fairly warm day, in the morning. Before being placed for wintering, she cut the crown of the rose, and after wintering she did only cosmetic trimming - she removed branches that were dried or frozen.
Morela: I've been doing roses for 10 years. They winter in my open ground. They bloom several times a year, from May to January. In winter, I do not wrap them in anything. In the spring I cut them off, in April. But you have to wait for all the kidneys to bloom. Then it will be clear where to cut. Spider mites are a red spider mite. It sucks the sap out of the plant so it turns yellow and dies. It is most harmful in hot dry summers. Symptoms: the surface of the leaf is covered with yellow specks, which acquire a brown color. A web is visible on the underside of the leaf. Control measures: do not plant roses on the sunny side. Treat the plant with a decoction of field horsetail, as well as acaricides.
How to care for a pot rose after purchase
Ljuba: The newly purchased rose must be washed under a cool shower, and sprayed with phytoverm. A few days later I pass into a slightly larger pot, adding new soil. I pass very carefully, without interfering with the root system at all, roses do not like this. I never plant if there is more than one bush in the purchased pot. A few days later, if possible, I spill the actor, this is a standard procedure for all new ones. For the rest, I take care of the roses as usual - watering as the soil dries, be sure to dry, not bring to mold. But as soon as the earth dried up from above - water, then loosen. I feed roses from spring to the end of summer with Fertica-Lux fertilizer.
Irina-bahus: I don't cut off the newly donated flowering rose and don't even always transplant, I let it go, then I cut off the peduncles and transplant it into a normal pot and earth. Roses do not like root injuries, so I advise you to carefully plant them. In the future, I take care of the same as other houseplants.
Severina: If the rose was bought in late autumn or winter (which is extremely undesirable), I bring it home and leave it in the form in which it is for 2-3 hours, I do not unpack it so as not to subject it to a sharp change in temperature, thereby driving it into even greater shock.
I unpack, cut off broken buds or branches (if any), inspect for the presence of pests, put mine with room temperature water (instead of spraying) in a spacious bag, the top of which I do not close and place in the brightest place. As the leaves and buds crumble, I remove them from the surface of the soil, while this pink behavior does not cause me any shock, this is normal. I periodically spray and do not move back and forth. After a few days (4-5), I remove the bag and continue spraying.
I do the same with summer roses, only I take them to the loggia. 3-4 weeks after purchase (provided that the plant was healthy) I make an easy transplant. I shake off the soil that is shaken off myself, pour drainage into the pot, a little earth on top, put a rose bush and fill up the soil. I slightly compact, water and trim the branches to a state of 2-4 kidneys. For two weeks I remove from the direct sun.
Ljuba: When buying the first rose, I read that roses are individualistic and do not like to grow in one pot. Therefore, I decided to plant two mini roses. After a period of adaptation (two weeks), she cut off flowers, divided roses in water, the roots were intertwined there, which was otherwise impossible. Carefully, so as not to damage, disassembled them with a thin stick. Then she left them in the water with fungicide for half an hour while she cooked the earth. I planted it, transferred the transplant easily, did not drop a single leaf. The next rose (yellow) was also transplanted, but did not cut off the flowers. She suffered well too, only she was a little boring. After being transferred to the corridor, she had fun again. The last - pink I could not plant, so the roots were mixed up. So, I half transplanted it, half exceeded it. Bloomed all the time. So it's hard to say what was best for roses. Probably it is necessary for each rose to act as the heart tells. And of course, depending on the state of the rose.
marie: Bought roses immediately after purchase cut, transplanted (did not pass, namely transplanted with washing the roots to free from the old land). Planted in a new land - special for roses, one bush in a pot.
svetiktimka: I have had a rosette from the store for two years. Before doing something with her, I gave 2-3 weeks to adapt in the apartment. Then she cut off all the roses and buds, transplanted them into a larger pot. There were four of them there, I wanted to plant them, but I did not injure the roots - they need to be protected. I took the land from the dacha, examined (what I managed to see) the roots, cut something and powdered it with root (I did not really bother with the earthen lump). That was it. Of course, during this time the tick "visited" us, but I quickly got rid of it, fortunately, during the time I noticed, I treated the soaps with a solution (household soap), a week later I repeated this procedure again. This is how it clung to me, now it pleases with numerous flowers, although it would be good if they simultaneously blossomed.
How to care for roses, forum discussion: