Vriesia splendens

 

Bromeliad family. Homeland Central and South America, Antilles. There are about 250 species in nature.

  • The beautiful or brilliant Vriesea splendens is an epiphytic or terrestrial plant with a broad funnel-shaped rosette of leaves, broad-linear in shape. Leaves with the edge bent upwards, pointed at the end, 50-70 cm long, dark green in color, with transverse dark stripes. Spikelet inflorescence on a long peduncle about 40-50 cm long. Bracts on the peduncle fit tightly to each other, yellow, red above. Flowering in May - July.
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  • The keeled Vriesea carinata is an epiphytic or terrestrial plant, considerably smaller than the previous species. A wide funnel-shaped rosette of leaves, broad-linear in shape, about 15-30 cm long. The leaves are light green in color, without stripes. Spikelet inflorescence on a thin erect or drooping peduncle. The inflorescence is wide, about 5 cm long. Bracts are not tightly adjacent to each other, red, green at the ends. Flowering in November - December.
  • Sanders' Vriesea saundersii is a terrestrial plant with a wide funnel-shaped rosette of leaves, broad-linear in shape. The leaves are curved downward, pointed and bent at the end, about 30 cm long, gray, with purple spots and spots on the back. Paniculate inflorescence on a long erect peduncle about 50-60 cm long. Sepals are shorter than bracts, green-yellowish in color. Flowering in October - November.

Vryesias with gray leaves are more unpretentious - they are easier to tolerate temperature and humidity changes than species with green leaves. At the same time, they require a lighter location.

Caring for Vriesia

Temperature: Vriesia is thermophilic, prefers in summer about 22-24 ° C, in winter about 18-20 ° C, at least 16 ° C. He does not like cold drafts, a sharp drop in temperature after watering is especially dangerous. In cold, damp conditions, bromeliad roots quickly rot.

Lighting: Bright diffused light, possible with some direct sun morning or evening. It grows well on the eastern and northern windows, as well as with additional artificial lighting. If you have south windows, place the vriesia on a table or stand in the immediate vicinity of the window, a tulle curtain will be enough to protect the plant from direct sun.

Watering: In spring and summer they water quite abundantly - the earthen lump should be slightly moist all the time (but not too raw). They pour it into an outlet, but water quickly seeps into the ground. It is better to water more often, but little by little. In winter, watering is more moderate, with cool maintenance, vriesia is watered only when the upper layer of the earth dries well. At air temperatures below 18-20 ° C, water is not poured into the outlet, only the soil must be moistened, otherwise fungal infections can develop on the leaves. Water for irrigation is always used only warm, persistent.

Fertilizers: Fertilization is carried out in spring and summer. For top dressing, special fertilizers for bromeliads are used, fertilizers for orchids are also suitable (in the recommended dose). Fertilizers can be used for other flowering houseplants in a half dose. Feeding is carried out in 2-3 weeks.

Air humidity: Periodically sprayed, optimal humidity 60%. If the plant stands in a heated room in winter, then spraying does not soften the dryness of the air at all, you need to place the pot on a wide tray of water, or put an air humidifier next to it.

Transplantation: As needed into soil consisting of 3 parts of leafy earth, 1 parts of pine bark (can be replaced with finely cut wine cork), 1 parts of sphagnum moss or crushed fern rhizomes (can be replaced with coconut fibre) and 1 parts of sand. You can use a purchased soil mixture for bromeliads. The container for landing should not be too deep, it is better to use low wide plates.

Reproduction: Daughter rosettes that grow back after the mother plant has faded. By the time the children are old enough, they are transplanted into separate pots, 8-10 cm in diameter, into the substrate as for adult plants. Subsequently, transshipment to a larger pot may be required if the plant grows strongly and is unstable in a small pot.

Growing Vriesia

From the personal experience of the forum participants:

Severina: Children in vriesia grow in the middle of the mother's outlet, so no seating is possible there. Vriesia is unpretentious, mine is already the third year living in what was donated. Neither the soil nor the pot changed. Its root serves to attach to the substrate, and not to absorb nutrients, so it is very compact and a large pot is not needed. She will react positively to artificial lighting, she does not need much, but to "cold legs" - no, it is better in warmth. I pour water into the outlet when it blooms, and when it does not bloom, just in winter, when it dries - I do not top up as much as in summer. You can wash it, sprinkle it with warm water all the more.

Care after flowering

Most species of vriesia bloom for a long time - within a few months. Unfortunately, after flowering, the mother plant dies. But before that, daughter shoots are formed.

Therefore, when the plant has faded, cut off the peduncle near the base and separate the side shoots if they already have their roots. Plant young plants in small pots, put for the first 2-3 weeks in a warm place (22-24 ° C) in a transparent bag to increase air humidity and facilitate the rooting of children.

By the way

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Vriesia love fresh air, but strong drafts are contraindicated. Do not put plants crowded, especially if the room has high humidity. When transplanting, especially pay attention to the friability and breathability of the soil so that the roots breathe, and after watering they dry out quickly.

Pests of Vriesia

Bromeliad shield - similar to light brown plaques, settles on both sides of the leaves, the affected leaves turn yellow and die.

Control measures. To begin with, try wiping the leaves on both sides of the leaves with a sponge soaked in medical alcohol or a household soap solution. If this does not help, then you can water and wipe the leaves with actara solution.

Mealybugs are worms - similar to white cotton balls at the very base of the leaves, sometimes right on the peduncles. Damages the leaves, and sooty fungus settles on its secretions. The plant is stunted, the leaves turn yellow, if not taken measures, it can die.

Control measures. Wipe all leaves on both sides with a sponge with laundry soap or alcohol. Remove pests with cotton swab dipped in alcohol. In case of severe damage, treat with insecticide (actellic, actara, confidor).

Red spider mite - pale irregular spots appear on the leaves, sometimes puncture punctures, noticeable in the leaf lumen. Gradually, the leaves turn yellow and die off.

Control measures. Increase the humidity near the plant, wash the plant with a sponge in soap foam (green soap or zooshampun), leave for 5 minutes, then wash off with warm water. In case of severe damage, treat with acaricide.

More about diseases and pests