The family is Asteraceae. Originally from East Asia, chrysanthemum from the 18th century was introduced to Europe, where its hybridization immediately began. This led to an amazing variety of its colors and shapes.
To date, about 30 species are known. They are all low shrubs with erect shoots, glabrous or rarely hairy. The leaves are alternate, simple or pinnately dissected, with a serrated or notched edge. In different species, the leaves are pubescent or bare, light green. The flowers are small, in baskets, what we call flowers are inflorescences of many reed and tubular flowers. If reed marginal flowers are arranged in one row, the flowers are simple, if many are double, and tubular flowers are imperceptibly hidden in the middle. The inflorescences of chrysanthemums can be of a wide variety of shades - red, pink, purple, yellowish and poisonous yellow, and white, many varieties of bicolor. We can say that inflorescences come in all colors except blue. The fruit is an achene.
At the beginning of its cultural history, chrysanthemums were unsuitable for growing at home - too demanding on fresh air and a cold period of rest, susceptible to diseases. Breeding did not stand still, and varieties suitable for potting were specially bred. Such chrysanthemums come to our windowsill from Holland, Poland and nurseries in other European countries. However, when growing in nurseries, special drugs are used to inhibit the growth of shoots, so purchased chrysanthemums are compact and blooming. It is difficult to maintain this miniature - we do not have such chemicals, so do not be surprised that over time the shape of the purchased chrysanthemum changes. For compactness and branching, chrysanthemum shoots must be regularly pinched, cuttings, starting from reaching a height of about 20 cm. When breeding cuttings, several plants are planted in one pot to get a lush bush.
Chrysanthemum care at home
Temperature: Chrysanthemum in summer loves coolness, optimally from 18 to 20 ° C, at night 5-6 ° C lower. It does not tolerate daytime heat above 24 ° C, especially indoors. Flowering in chrysanthemums in pots, as in garden ones, occurs during a short daylight hours - 8 hours, and the onset of cool weather, at temperatures above 20 ° C, the flowers wilt. Therefore, it is possible to successfully grow chrysanthemums only in a private house or, if there is an insulated balcony, when you can constantly ventilate and there is a difference in daily temperatures. In winter, the dormant period is dry and leafless.
Lighting: Chrysanthemum is photophilous, it needs sunlight, but the problem is that in summer it is very hot in the sun - shading is necessary so that the plants do not overheat and burn. The east or northwest side is best.
Watering: Plentiful in warm time, after the top of the ground dries. In cold weather (when it rains or spring cold snaps at the end of summer), it is more moderate, it is necessary to wait a few days after the soil dries.
Air humidity: Periodic spraying if very hot, or you can put the pot on a tray of water. Chrysanthemums love air humidity from 40 to 50%.
Transplantation: Young plants are transplanted annually old after a couple of years. Chrysanthemums are not demanding on soils, and will grow well in ordinary garden land, to which a little humus and sand are added. The only condition is that chrysanthemums do not like acidic soils and dense caked soil. Therefore, vermiculite or even better coconut chips can be added for friability.
Reproduction: Cuttings, seeds and bush division.
Sometimes it happens that you were presented with cut chrysanthemums or you brought them from the garden, and while they were standing in the water, they gave roots (this refers to small-flower varieties of chrysanthemums). In this case, after transplanting the cuttings into a pot, they should be cut at a height of up to 10-15 cm, if the plants are not sufficiently bushy, you can pinch several branches.
Post-flowering chrysanthemum care: Usually chrysanthemums are sold as annual houseplants and are discarded after flowering, but this is not at all necessary. If you want to preserve the plant, then after flowering cut off all long shoots, leaving only short petioles. Place the chrysanthemum pot in a cool room with a temperature of + 1-3 ° C. In the spring, with the growth of young shoots, the plant can be transferred to a warmer room in a bright place. Then transplant into fresh soil. A month later, you can first feed two fertilizers for deciduous plants with an interval of 2 weeks, then phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for flowering, also every two weeks.