Outwardly, adenium does not look like a rose, of course, but its second name is quite justified - it is one of the most beautiful desert flowers. The natural habitat of Oman, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, as well as Central and South Africa. However, the "desert rose" is very successfully cultivated in the humid tropics - Thailand, India, Malaysia, the Philippines. It is there that enterprising producers experiment, cross, breed more and more varieties and spread adeniums to other countries and even to other continents.
Adenium is a slow-growing bush or small tree with a fleshy trunk that has a thickening at the base, the so-called caudex (caudex). Under natural conditions, adeniums grow up to 1.5-2 meters in height. On our windowsills, of course, they cannot reach such a height - only centimeters 50-60, according to the books.
The color and shape of the leaves varies depending on the species or variety of the plant. By the way, the question of systematization of adeniums remains open, since it is not clear whether to consider the genus monotypic or to distinguish regional forms into independent species. In the literature, you may come across the following names: Adenium obesum, Adenium swazicum, Adenium arabicum, Adenium oleifolium, Adenium somalense, Adenium socotranum and Adenium multiflorum. They differ in their habitat and characteristics of care in culture, as well as the timing of the beginning of flowering.
The most common species on our windowsills is Adenium obesum. He is the most early flowering and unpretentious. The leaves are most often green (oblong, rounded or slightly pointed at the ends), but there are also mottled, yellow, white and even red. However, they can be shiny and glossy, or they can be dull or slightly hairy. And the color of flowers through the efforts of breeders is simply amazing - from pure white to dark red and even burgundy with blue, while different varieties may have all kinds of borders, strokes, stripes, etc. on the petals. Consider, however, the following: the more extraordinary the "coloring" of the leaf, the more capricious the plant itself. Adeniums with variegated and colored leaves require maximum sun, grow more slowly, and often bloom reluctantly. There are, however, pleasant exceptions to the rules - for example, the variegated adenium Daang Nab Anant, which has already been tested on Russian windowsills. It grows without problems, and blooms willingly. Thai manufacturers themselves praise it.
The size of the flowers in Adenium obesum is on average 6-7 cm in diameter, but it can be smaller or larger. Flowering usually begins at the age of 1.5-2 years, and its duration ranges from 2-3 months to a year. Of course, much depends not only on the variety, but also on the conditions of detention.
What to plant adenium in
Adeniums need sufficient space for the root system. If the plant is young, it is advisable to carry out transplantation more often, sometimes even twice a year - until the plants reach the desired size.
Pot material doesn't matter, shape is much more important. It is better to use shallow wide round pots for planting, with a lot of drainage holes. For small plants, the pot can be taken deeper - the root system of adeniums develops quickly. But the color of the capacity matters. Since your adenium will be constantly in the sun, do not choose dark pots - they heat up a lot, which is not at all useful for the roots.
Planned transplantation is carried out at the beginning of the growing season, so that by autumn the substrate is fully developed by the roots. We do not need any extra risk of rotting from waterlogging. For the same reasons, if you bought a plant in the fall, choose a new pot the same or just a little larger.
If the roots of your adenium were damaged during a transplant, you should not water it for at least a week. If it is rainy, humid weather and cloudy, you can also not water after landing (or just a little). But if the plants are quite healthy, there is sunny hot weather, they begin to water immediately, otherwise your pet will be offended and decide that he has a period of rest.
Adenium soil
What earth mixture to plant? When this question came before me, I read a lot of recommendations, often advising the exact opposite. For example, someone admits to use peat as a basis, while someone categorically does not recommend peat. The same applies to the use of sand in the mixture, even large (there is no talk of small), although sand for succulents is a native element. We will not talk about such exotic components as pieces of coconut peel, rice husks, lava stones, wood fern fibers, etc., added by manufacturers of Southeast Asia. Therefore, first about the general requirements for soil for adeniums.
- It should be nutritious, loose and permeable.
- Acidity - from slightly acidic to neutral.
- The addition of crushed charcoal (or small pieces of it) and some kind of fungicidal agent is very welcome (the easiest way to find "Trichodermin" in our stores).
Now more on points. Ideally, to please opponents of peat and sand, the earth mixture for adenium would look like this: coconut fiber - 50%; deciduous humus land - 20-30%; pearlite 10-20%; fine, up to 3 mm expanded clay 10-20%; charcoal.
However, coconut fiber can not always be found, perlite is also sometimes not at hand, there is no time to get out behind the sheet earth under linden, birch or hazel... What to do? Buy a package of soil for succulents in the store and add to it what you need at hand.
Buying ready-made soil in the store, of course, we automatically get both peat and sand in the land mixture (adeniums, apparently, do not know that they do not like peat and sand, so they grow well and even bloom). But we simply have to improve the purchased mixture as much as possible. Mandatory additives I consider charcoal and inert baking powder - perlite and vermiculite. Be careful with vermiculite, do not overdo it, because it is very moisture-intensive (perlite is preferable in this case). Instead of fine expanded clay, you can add broken brick (you have to work hard, the fractions should be small). By the way, the older the adenium, the more it is advised to add expanded clay (or brick) to the land mixture - up to 70%.
What, you don't have a brick? Then the simplest, cheapest and most effective baking powder is fine polystyrene foam crumb. Break off two pieces from some packaging container, rub them together and get a wonderful and completely free baking powder (it is better to choose with small fractions - it is better to rub and electrify less).
Lighting and watering
Adeniums need the maximum possible lighting in our conditions. The more sun, the better. Of course, if the plant came to you in a parcel or stood in a store in a dark corner, you should not immediately put it in the sun - teach it to be good gradually. But always remember that in the conditions of central Russia there is not much sun for adeniums. Even if the leaves are burnt out of habit after a cloudy winter, the plant will grow new foliage. But only in the bright sun does the plant gain strength for flowering.
Some experts advise not to change the position of adeniums during growth, so that areas of the stem that were previously in the shade do not receive burns. It is also recommended in young specimens (less than 7-8 cm thick) in spring and autumn, when the sun is low, to protect the base of the stem, which is sensitive to burns. I in no way refute these tips, but I have never used them myself: I twist the plants around my axis and do not shade the stem of the seedlings with anything. Perhaps if you live on a high floor, and the sun persistently fries your window from early morning until late evening, these tips will prove relevant to you. Observe and draw your own conclusions.
The question "how often to water" depends, of course, on the conditions of detention and the time of year. In general, it is recommended to water the adeniums by completely soaking with an earthen lump, and then letting the substrate dry properly. But in summer, during the period of active vegetation, you can water more often - the complete drying of an earthen coma during this period is not necessary or even undesirable, since the plant can stop growing. Of course, if the soil is constantly wet, adeniums can rot even in the warm season, so be vigilant and do not overdo it.
Fertilizing
Adenium fertilizers are very positive. You can add slowly soluble, "long-playing" fertilizers to the substrate or regularly feed with an organic-mineral fertilizer solution with an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Feeding is carried out during vegetation and flowering once or twice a month. If you want your pet to increase the vegetative mass, occasionally at the beginning of the season you can spend it with a "cocktail" with a high nitrogen content. Phosphate-potassium fertilizers promote flowering and strengthen the plant.
In spring and autumn, it is advisable to make micro-fertilizers.
Wintering adeniums
This is the most difficult time for our ward. Theoretically, there is a period of rest when the leaves completely or partially fall, and watering should be greatly reduced. Why theoretically? Because the conditions of detention on our windowsills are far from natural. In addition, someone believes that for normal growth and abundant flowering of adeniums, it is imperative to observe a period of rest, someone says that it is desirable, and someone - which is not at all necessary. Let's figure it out.
The dormancy period in some adenium species can be complete (A. boehmianum and A. multiflorum) or partial, when only shoot growth (A. somalense) is suspended, but the leaves are preserved. Some species bloom for the first time at rest (A. somalense, A. multiflorum), and if there is not enough light (and in our autumn-winter it, of course, is not enough), then flowering will not work.
In nature, the dormant period of adenium obesum (A. obsum) lasts several months. If you can provide it with a dry and cool content, then it will be. But on our windowsills it is more often warm (with the exception of extreme winter days), so in culture the dormant period will be very short, and the leaves may fall only partially or not fall at all. And if you also provide illumination, then the plant can even bloom, although the usual flowering time of adeniums in our latitudes is summer and early autumn.
This is what the "change of seasons" looks like in practice for adeniums on windowsills. In spring and summer, the temperature ranges from 22 to 35 ° C (most adeniums like about 30 ° C). With a decrease in daylight hours and a decrease in temperature to 16-20 ° C, growth slows down. At the same time, part of the foliage may turn yellow and fall (the adenium itself suggests that it wants to rest). At this time, watering should be significantly reduced and feeding should be stopped. At temperatures below 15 ° C, adeniums begin a period of rest. In winter, it is recommended to keep at a temperature of 10-15 ° C. Note that the temperature should not fall below 10 ° C. Adult adeniums can withstand a decrease in temperature to + 4 ° C with an absolutely dry earthen coma, but it is better not to risk it. If the apartment is warm in winter, do not stop watering. Of course, you need to water less than in summer, but how much less - you can only determine yourself, focusing on the temperature on your windowsill. Take into account the age of your adenium - an adult plant at 10-15 ° C will withstand a long time without watering at all, but a seedling is unlikely.
And another important point. The first watering after a long dry maintenance can be very dangerous - the plant is completely asleep, all processes have slowed down, and here we are with our "care." Even a small amount of water for an unrequited adenium can be fatal. Thus, I ruined two strong seedlings: I did not water for a long time, because it was very cold, and then I "regretted." The result was disastrous. The conclusion on winter content was as follows:
- seedlings in winter should be moderately, but regularly watered;
- large plants should also be watered (even the adenium that has thrown off all the leaves can be watered about once a month);
- if the conditions of detention were 10-15 ° C and completely without watering, then it is important to determine the end of the rest period. To do this, in the spring it is necessary to transfer the plant to a bright place and closely monitor the awakening of the kidneys. Start watering in 2-3 weeks when the plant wakes up, and increase it gradually when active growth begins.
Attention: sometimes the leaves of adeniums turn yellow and fall after flowering, errors in care or a sharp change in weather. If the plant continues to give new leaves, then we do not confuse this with the onset of the dormant period and continue to water.
Pests and diseases
It is very interesting to read in some sources that "adeniums have practically no pests, maybe only a shield will hit random leaves..." And what, the shield is not a pest? And somehow I missed a tick on adeniums received from Thailand (they were practically without leaves, well, where to place a tick there, especially since adeniums "have practically no pests?"). I took it out for almost six months !
So keep in mind: despite the toxicity, adeniums are damaged by insects (mealybugs, ticks, etc.). Measures of struggle are generally accepted. My adeniums were quite loyal to such common drugs as Fitoverm and Actellic. If you have to fight pests with some new tool, it is better to try it first on one, the least valuable copy.
But the most important enemy of the adeniums is root and other rot. We do not allow flooding and stagnation of water! Correctly compose an earthen mixture with an obligatory layer of drainage in a pot! When the temperature drops below 20 ° C and insufficient lighting, watering is significantly reduced!
Reproduction
Adeniums reproduce in almost every way possible in plants, and each method has its pros and cons.
Seed adenium
If it is useless to look for adenium in your shops, the easiest way is to order seeds via the Internet. Pros: it is during seed propagation that the plant most quickly forms a "ass," that is, caudex. Cons: Varietal signs may not persist, that is, there is no guarantee that you will get exactly the color and size you saw in the photo.
It is naturally better to sow in spring or early summer so that the seedlings have time to grow before winter, although practice has shown that in January the seeds germinate quite successfully. Keep in mind that adenium seeds lose their germination quite quickly, so it is better not to pull with sowing. In extreme cases, in autumn and winter, you can arrange additional lighting for your shoots.
The substrate should be breathable and only slightly wet, in no case wet! You can compose it from sand, perlite and crushed charcoal. You can germinate in vermiculite, but then you need to be even more careful with moisturizing. The mixture must be neutral (the acidic substrate prevents germination, so peat is not used).
Before sowing, it is recommended to soak the seeds for two hours (no longer needed!) In a warm, humid environment. Someone advises to treat the seeds with fungicide, someone says that adeniums do not like this... I soaked the seeds in a solution (or rather, "suspensions") of crushed coal - I took ordinary settled water, added coal to it with a generous hand, stirred it, threw seeds into it - and into a warm place.
Then we slightly deepen the seeds into the prepared substrate (we put them horizontally so as not to confuse the top-bottom), cover them and place them in a warm, bright place. Do not forget to regularly ventilate our guy!
Seeds should be germinated at a temperature of at least 24 ° (and preferably 28-35 ° C). If you liked the seeds, they will germinate in 3-15 days. But with a cool content below 22-24 ° C and (or) too wet substrate, alas, they can rot.
At first, the shoots are protected from direct sunlight, drafts and a decrease in temperature below 18 ° C. When real leaves are formed (1st pair), we gradually begin to accustom to the sun, and with the advent of the second pair, we plant them in separate containers. Pots with a diameter of 5-6 cm are suitable for two to three-month-old adeniums.
Reproduction by air bends, cutting
This is one of the most effective methods (can be applied to shoots at least 2 cm in diameter). It is better to make branches during the active growing season. A common technique for such events is to make a circular incision with a clean sharp knife, dry the wound, treat it with a root stimulant, cover the incision with wet sphagnum and wrap it with opaque cellophane or other suitable material (fix it with wire or elastic tape). Moisturize moss regularly. A month later, roots form on the shoot - now you can finally separate the branch and plant it.
But cutting adeniums is not always possible, since cuttings easily rot. The handle is desirable at least 10 cm, the cut must be well dried and treated with crushed charcoal. Substrate for rooting - any permeable.
The disadvantages of branches and cuttings include the fact that caudex is either absent altogether or forms much later than in plants obtained from seeds.
Inoculation of adeniums
You can vaccinate adeniums on oleander and on adenium itself. Distribution has acquired the second option - it is very convenient if you want to get a plant with a large caudex and specific varietal flowers or leaves. You can buy adenium with three or even five different vaccinations - a whole white-pink-red bouquet on one "priest ."
The grafting technique is standard, as is the care of the grafted plant (it should be protected from direct sunlight until the active growth of the graft begins and the sprouts appearing from the rootstock should be removed in time).
Crown andcaudex formation
Adeniums sometimes begin to branch at a young age, but more often this happens after flowering or when the caudex is large enough. However, adenium growers do not expect "natural grace" and pinch their seedlings to produce a well-branched plant. This should be done before the start of intensive growth, that is, in late winter or early spring. And do not overdo it - if you cut the main trunk too low, many thin branches ("broom") will climb, which is considered ugly for adenium. In adult plants, branches can also be pruned or removed.
Caudex forms with age itself. If a simple bottle shape is not to your taste, you can try to form a caudex of unusual shapes. With each transplant, lift the plant a few centimeters above the soil level, exposing part of the roots - underground they are very bizarrely intertwined. You can lay your seedling on its side, fixing it in this position - the branches will still stretch up, and the caudex will gradually get used to it, and you will get an unusual "fallen tree." You can generally study the bonsai technique and apply some of its techniques to form an interesting trunk.
By Mila
Photos of Mila and Buttercup were used in the design of the article
Read on the forum topic How to grow adenium