Diffenbachia reproduction

Dieffenbachia appeared in my season of another flower itch, when you start to look at the plants accidentally seen or habitually surrounding you at work every day with interest, mentally trying them on to the windowsill. She grew up quietly in the hallway in a huge pot next door to begonia and chlorophytum. She was hot, dry, but she was doing well. And so it happened, a clear thought came: "I want her." It was in July, seven years ago.

Propagation of diffenbachia by cuttings

That shank my beauty grew out of was apical from a little basal shoot. Any segments of the trunk, no matter with leaves or without, would be rooted in diffenbachia, there would be a pair of kidneys on them.

Care for Dieffenbachia - in the Encyclopedia of Houseplants section.

Questions about growing Dieffenbachia - in the FAQs about plants.

Experience has shown that it is precisely such cuttings from the middle of the trunk that most quickly (in about a week) give roots in water. The apical cuttings are slightly behind them, and those from the lowest part of the trunk are tugodums, they need three weeks. Such rates of rooting in cuttings cut in spring and summer. With cuttings cut in autumn and winter, you need to be patient, their timing of roots is a month or more. During this time, they can lose all the foliage, but do not be embarrassed by this, the lateral buds or the top will wake up and the shoots will go.

It is best to cut the cuttings with a scalpel or paper cutter in one sharp motion. Then the cut will be even and without burrs around the perimeter. Cuttings are well rooted in water, activated charcoal can be added to the water to insure against decay. At what point to plant in the ground is a matter of taste. I usually wait for the roots to regrow by 5 cm. With such a length, usually the apex or kidney begins to grow, and the transfer to the ground is painless.

The ground for aroid should be light. Universal soil mixed with vermiculite is quite suitable. But they need good drainage, because their roots grow very quickly in length. When rooting in the above way, no special conditions need to be created for the planted baby. The pot can be immediately taken more spacious so that a young, quickly gaining power plant has enough until spring. Well, then change the pot as you roll over.

Care for Dieffenbachia

The ideal condition for keeping a young plant at home is the western or eastern windowsill. All that is required of you is to regularly spray diffenbachia and water as the top layer of the earth dries. Sometimes turn to grow straight. The strong adult plant stands well and has an attractive ornamental appearance in the room as well.

Spraying for diffenbachia is both a prevention against ticks and a guarantee of a well-groomed appearance; the tips of the leaves practically do not dry out during daily spraying. In a strong plant, the leaves turn yellow quite rarely, one at a time. Mass yellowing of leaves occurs in case of too dry air or insufficient watering. If the leaves turn yellow once a week, look for a tick, treat with insecticide, do not wait for baldness of the trunk.

Diffenbachia fertilizer is also necessary; potash fertilizers for ornamental deciduous plants are suitable for this. The plant must be well watered before fertilizing, otherwise there is a danger of burning the roots.

Diffenbachia grows very quickly, releases sheet by sheet, increasing their size from times. She does not have side shoots. In spring, diffenbachia blooms, after flowering 2-3 leaves are smaller. For a large plant, this is not a hindrance, and it is better for a young one to remove flowers. Giant varieties with huge leaves usually grow alone, but many diffenbachia with medium-sized leaves like to give basal shoots. Over time, a healthy bush with trunks of different sizes is obtained. My husband does not allow me to further increase the pot and from time to time I have to cut off some trunk and give friends cuttings.

By Kroky