Bulbous distillation

Bulbs are selected large, healthy, tight to the touch. For early distillation, planting begins in September-October (flowering by the New Year), and for late - in November (flowering by Christmas). If you do not plan to plant the bulbs immediately, store them in a dry, cool place, such as a refrigerator or basement.

Before planting, for the prevention of diseases, it is advisable to keep the bulbs in a fungicide, for example, a solution of the drug "Maxim." Dilute 1 ampoule in 1 liter of water.

An important rule: for uniform flowering in one area, you need to plant bulbs of about the same size, one variety, if desired, and one color.

Moreover, the bulbs are planted tightly, tightly to each other. And the earth is poured in layers, which are also compacted with fingers. The upper part of the bulbs should remain above ground. As the earth is poured in layers, it must be moistened, added more, ground and moistened again. This is necessary so that when the ground is tightly planted and compacted, it is wetted more evenly. With subsequent watering, you need to make sure that the water is immediately absorbed into the substrate. The planted bulbs in the plate are exposed to a darkened cool place where the temperature is within 5-7 ° C. The room should be well ventilated, i.e. the cellar will not work. Can be placed in the refrigerator, on an insulated balcony. Periodically, the bulbs need to be examined, if necessary, moisten the soil, check if mold has appeared (usually noticeable on the walls of the pot).

You can transfer the plate to the house with the appearance of young shoots. However, a temperature not higher than 15 ° C is desirable. This creates certain difficulties when expelling bulbs at home. But you can find such a place on the landing, on the balcony, at the ajar window (if double frames), etc. It is also necessary to ensure high humidity. For this, the plate is placed on a tray with wet expanded clay or pebbles. There must be a lot of light, otherwise the peduncles will stretch out and be weak. Therefore, if there is not enough natural light, you see that the arrows grow slowly, put additional lamps. Although hatch bulbous are not as demanding on light as indoor flowers. Do not forget that flowering plants must be fed. For this, dry fertilizer-luxury fertilizer is suitable, as well as other fertilizers, liquid or dry, intended for decorative and flowering plants.

Bulbous life after flowering ends, usually ends as houseplants, but they can be planted in the garden. After the end of flowering, when the flowers wilt, they are cut off, but keeping the peduncle! Plants continue to water and feed until the leaves begin to die. Then the watering is stopped, the ground in the bowl dries up and the bulbs easily separate. They need to be wrapped in dry matter and placed in a cool place, such as a refrigerator. But by no means in a plastic bag. Otherwise, they will suffocate and moldy. In autumn, these bulbs are planted in open ground.
Bulbs overwintered and faded in the garden can be used for repeated distillation.

Problems with bulbous expulsion

The main problems are slow plant growth, delayed flowering, weak flowering.

Reasons:

• planting too weak bulbs, inferior, children, or bulbs after the first expulsion;
• insufficiently low distillation temperature;
• insufficient coverage of growing shoots;
• lack of nutrients (too poor substrate, lack of top dressing);
• too late introduction of bulbs after waking up in room conditions;
• irregular watering.

Personal experience with bulbous expelling

svph: Sharing my thoughts and experiences.

1. Reinjection of Dutch bulbs is not recommended again until three years later. That is, the first year is kick-out, then two normal cycles in the garden, then kick-out again. I only once bought a distilled crocus and tried to keep the onion. By the end of the cycle, she had grown only a replacement bulb, which was about half the size of the mother's. Naturally, the next year this onion did not bloom, although it was planted in the garden. Gave only one frail leaf. Bloomed in the third year. Gave 2 flowers. That is, during the year of "rest" she increased the normal replacement bulb and one child. This suggests that the bulb was not yet ready for expulsion, since crocuses normally have 2-4 children in addition to the replacement bulb. Therefore, I am inclined to the opinion of the Dutch - the bulbs must be given two years of rest, and then only driven out again.

2. Digging in my beds the other day, I accidentally dug up two crocus bulbs. They were both with a fully developed root system and centimeter sprouts. Most likely, they go to winter so that with the first warm days they will immediately appear on the surface. So, sprouts in the refrigerator are most likely the normal state of pasture bulbs.

3. All the pasture flowers that I happened to see in pots at an "odd" time for flowering were buried in the ground only by 2/3. I was not specifically interested in expulsion, but just in case I give you this information. I think that this is done for a reason, or to accelerate growth, or to appear peduncles, or even to "turn on" the activity of the bulb.

4. Pots for bulbous distillation: put in a pot convenient for them (and for caring for them), and then put this pot in a beautiful slightly larger flowerpot. It may not be a flower pot at all, but some kind of container: a vase, a ceramic bowl, a wide-throated jug, a decorative bucket, a plastic box decorated with moss and stones, anything up to a peeled and polished stump. For the first time I found myself in the "pot" section of a flower shop in Denmark, I was surprised that 90% of pots do not have a water hole. The situation was clarified by the mother-in-law. She was very surprised when she saw my flowers planted directly in decorative pots. It turns out that in Denmark decorative pots are used only for "decorative" purposes, i.e. they put ordinary plastic pots in which flowers are sold. Flowers after purchase no one transplants and does not pass. Comfortable and beautiful. And the flowers are not injured and continue to grow in the soil that was specially selected for them in the greenhouse. Decorative pots (planters, flowerpots) are selected for furniture, decoration, wallpaper, etc. They also serve as a pallet. And at first glance you can never say that the flower is not planted, but simply inserted into the pot. For short bulbous (snowdrops, crocuses, scylls), you need not pots at all, but flat bowls. So let your fantasy run wild.

natalyf: I don't have special conditions for being kicked out, I don't even have a balcony. I waited when it got a little colder outside, and dropped the bulbs into pots, one into a 5-7 cm pot. Those planted in 2 did not bloom. The tail should stick above the surface of the earth. And crocuses fell asleep almost completely. They can be stuffed into a pot a lot. I planted 3 hyacinths in a larger pot, but they must be of the same flowering period in order to grow at the same time .

Planted and carried out the front door (you can use the balcony), there, in the entrance, the temperature is about + 15 and the lighting is weaker than in the house. The point is that the temperature and lighting should decrease gradually. I kept them there for 7-10 days, and at the entrance it also gradually got colder. Then I put the minimum cold in the refrigerator - about + 10 degrees, wrapped the pots with a newspaper and put them at the very bottom, in place of vegetable containers. Now we wait. If food starts to disappear, you can gradually lower the temperature in the refrigerator a little. About once every 2 weeks I got pots and checked the soil. If dry, then moistened a little.

The first growths pecked about 2 weeks later and grew slowly, slowly. But I was sorted by impatience, and I hurried, pulling out the largest sprouts in 6 weeks. They never bloomed. Then I noticed that the larger the sprout grew in the refrigerator, the more likely it was to bloom. By the way, hyacinths and crocuses have bloomed with me, but with tulips and daffodils it is a little more difficult. The irises did not bloom at all.
It takes 8-12 weeks to wait. The growth rate depends on the variety (early or late) and the quality of the bulbs. When the sprout reached 5-7 centimeters, I took it out of the refrigerator and - out the front door, put it in a box with a lid - protection from light.

Gradually moved the lid, increasing the gap for light. After 7-10 days, when they gradually got used to the light and turned green, brought it into the apartment and put it in the coolest room, I have a kitchen, there is no battery and the window is always slightly open - cyclamens frolic there. Again, the temperature and lighting should rise gradually. I didn't put it on the windowsill right away, held it a meter from the window for a couple of days, and then moved it to the window. When the buds were recruited, she transferred to the hall, to the most honorable place! But! It's important! Hatching plants are spring flowers and love cool. If it's hot in the room, they're not going to like it.

barsuchok: I'll tell you a little from the information on how and why to cool the bulbs, and how to adjust the flowering to the desired date.

In nature, in the autumn-winter period, the synthesis and accumulation of gibberellin, a substance that causes the growth of shoots, occurs in bulbs (tulips). So, so that the same processes take place in the bulbs for distillation, they are artificially cooled for a long time in the dark at a temperature of 9 degrees (usually this is the bottom of the refrigerator). But, cooling can be carried out only after the beginnings of the flower are formed, otherwise "blind buds" may appear. So, why are we cooling the bulbs? Cooling accelerates the development of planted plants. Rooting takes place faster by 8-14 days, and flowering occurs earlier by 11-14 days, compared with bulbs stored until planting at 20 degrees. The total cooling period (including the rest period) for early distillation is 130-155 days (about 5 months). The start date for cooling the bulbs is set as follows: to the number of weeks needed for cooling, add another 3-4 weeks for growth and count this time back from the intended flowering date. Planting bulbs for distillation is usually carried out in October.

irina-bahus: I took up this business because the bulbs ordered in some online store came to me at the end of October, when I was not going to the village. I planted chionodoxes, botanical tulips, lines and botanical daffodils (small) in plastic pots for so much, because it fit into the pot, but so that the bulbs did not touch. It was sprinkled with earth, but it turned out very low, because the drainage takes away the place, and the pots are low. She watered all this, put it in a dark bag and put it in the vegetable box of the refrigerator. Sprouts came out in late November - early December. During this time, I never had to water (I checked the ground).

The sprouts, as read, sat in the refrigerator up to 5 cm tall. Then it all stood near the balcony door (there, of course, light, but not very, and blows decently). As green, put on the windowsill. Flowers began to bloom at the end of January, then in early February chionodoxes bloomed, and tulips opened neatly for the birthday. Botanical daffodils (in the same conditions) gave excellent greens, but not a single flower arrow. I began to knit the greens in April-May, at the same time I cut them off, dried the bulbs and stored them in a cardboard box at room temperature (to be honest, I just forgot in the closet). In October I will plant them in the garden. What I remember exactly - after the bulbs are expelled, they are very weakened, they must be planted in natural conditions: planted in the fall, and so that there is a normal wintering.