Violet leaf stains

Stains on violet leaves can appear for different reasons and have different consequences. Examine the sheet carefully to understand the nature of the lesion, use a magnifying glass. You can take a picture of the spot and then enlarge it as much as possible in the graphics editor. The presence of black dots on the spot may indicate the appearance of parasitic fungi spores, and small dots, when enlarged, can immediately be identified as insect bites, sometimes even seen on leaves with pest oviposition spots, the web of the corresponding tick species, etc.

If direct sunlight fell on the violet for a long period of time, then yellow rounded spots appear on the leaves - burns. The fleshy violet leaf is simply welded in the sun, it softens, in the center the spot becomes light brown, the same spots can appear on flowers. Sunburns are easy to distinguish - they always appear on the side of the outlet that faced the sun after a sunny day. All burnt leaves must be removed, as the welded leaf cells will begin to decompose and become a source of infection. Violet will lose its decorativeness, and yet it is not critical, the variety will continue.

The best place for senpoles are the north, north-west and north-east windows. If there are none in the apartment, then the glass must be covered from early spring with a suitable transparent material: a special mirror film, a thin translucent fabric or paper, sometimes a small mosquito net is enough.

Spots of gray-beige color, small and covering almost the entire leaf, in the form of curls, blots, peas of stripes along the edge of the leaf. Over time, due to the loss of chlorophyll, the leaf tissue thins, but does not rot. The reason for the appearance of spots - violet strongly blown through the draft.

In the summer, when the apartment is hot, it seems that an open window or air conditioning will not lead to hypothermia, but the draft causes severe stress in violets, which leads to the manifestation of the disease of probably viral origin. The type of outlet becomes sloppy, dirty, but nothing can be done, you have to wait until new leaves grow. There is no danger of infecting other plants.

Dark spots along the edge of the old leaves of the lower row arise from a lack of nutrition, a sign of a lack of potassium. If the violet has not been transplanted for a long time, the earthen mixture snaps, which prevents the absorption of potassium and some trace elements, even if fertilized when watered. The leaves of the lower row become light, almost yellow - also a sign of lack of nutrition.

The violet must be carefully removed from the pot when the top layer of the earthen mixture dries. Using a fork, try to remove the upper strongly latched layer, tapping it and tilting the plant, from the rest of the coma, try to remove the old earth, as if combing it, trying not to damage the roots.

Replace the old drainage, preferably with sphagnum moss (gives an acidic reaction). Remove the lower layer of yellowed leaves and sprinkle with crushed coal. You can make a bandage of sphagnum moss soaked in a weak solution of manganese. Then transplant the plant into a slightly larger pot (1-1.5 cm) in size. Darkening and gradual dieback of lower violet leaves is a process of natural aging. Excess phosphorus in the earth substrate leads to premature aging of the violet.

Spots in the form of white or light gray powdery plaque. If the plaque is scraped off, the leaf tissue is damaged under it, gradually the leaf turns brown, dries, deforms and dies, buds covered with a mycelium film do not open. Violet is affected by powdery mildew - these are mushrooms of several species and genera.

The disease was preceded by a violation of cultural requirements: increased humidity, too low or high temperature, insufficient illumination, increased nitrogen content in top dressing, with a lack of phosphorus and potassium. Fungal spores more often fall into a planting substrate with land taken from a garden plot.

It is preferable to use forest land or some purchased peat substrates. With air currents, fungal spores can be transmitted from plant to plant. All affected parts of the diseased violet must be removed, and then carefully treated with insecticide (Topaz, Copper sulfate, Skor, etc.) using a spray gun. If the damage is minimal, then it is better not to use such radical measures, and after removing the affected leaves, treat the violet with a solution of manganese (0.25 g per 1 liter of water, light pink color), repeat after 5-7 days. You can use a solution of antibiotics: penicillin 100 units/ml and streptomycin 250 units/ml in a ratio of 1:1.

Dark spots covered with a gray fluffy coating (mushroom mycelium) occur more often on necrotized areas of a leaf or petiole caused by burn, insect damage, bacterial diseases, etc. - this is gray rot. In addition to several varieties of gray rot, violet is also affected by other types of fungal diseases, as a result of which spots of rusty, brown, gray color appear. A distinctive feature of such spots may be the presence of a certain coating on them, a darker narrow or wide border around the spot, as well as the presence of spore-bearing pustules of different colors: gray, black, orange spots or bulges.

It is difficult, sometimes impossible to correctly determine the type of fungal spotting. It is known that in nature there are more than 100 thousand species of fungi parasitizing on plants. A huge number of them can also affect violet (about 80% of all dangerous diseases are caused by mushrooms).

The spread of mushrooms occurs by spores, particles of mycelium (mycelium), sclerotia when violets come into contact with an infected plant, as well as with the help of water, wind, insects, dirty tools, pots, hands. Fungal diseases are easier to prevent than to cure. The affected parts of the plant are cut and destroyed (hands and knife are thoroughly washed). The plant is created comfortable conditions of content. Watered in the morning, dosed, not allowing drying out, but also not pouring, so that by night, with a decrease in fluid consumption, the earthen lump is already a little dry. A good supply of fresh air is needed, but by no means a draft. There should also be enough light, in the fall you will need additional lighting (daylight hours 10-12 hours).

Thus, the disease is preventable. British flower growers do not recommend using any chemicals at home, believing that it is cheaper to lose a flower than to spend money on your own treatment. There we go! In addition, against some types of mushrooms, all drugs are powerless. But it so happens that we are afraid of losing the variety that we have been looking for for so long. Then, observing all the precautions that were written earlier in the article Violet dies, we use fungicides (Fundazol, Skor, Chistotsvet, Winds, etc.) With Kuproxat (copper sulfate), you can disinfect all wounds after removing the affected areas of the plant, and it is also used to etch soil in which there may be fungal spores.

Zaslon or Barrier preparations can be added to the soil for prevention, which nourish the substrate and simultaneously contain antifungal compounds. If the disease progresses, then you need to choose the healthiest leaf, shorten the petiole and root it. Better in water. If the leaf has not been infected, then spots will not appear on it as the roots grow.

Bacterial spots differ from those of fungal origin by the absence of spore-bearing pustules, as well as the presence of a lighter pale green border. Bacterial spotting can look like small oily, rapidly increasing spots on the leaves in conditions of high humidity and high temperature, petioles and peduncles turn black. The leaves then die off.

During the summer heat, you still want to better drink your violets, but overflow at this time is especially dangerous and can lead to the rapid death of the plant. The cause of leaf spots can be a bacterial burn. The edge of the leaf turns black, dries out, can gradually die off the entire leaf. Young leaves, flowers, peduncles are often affected. Sometimes bacterial infection is accompanied by darkening of the veins on the leaves, bacteria penetrate the vascular system, cause a delay in water flow, and cause toxic poisoning of the entire plant.

The causes of the disease are the same as when affected by fungal diseases - violation of the conditions of detention. The control measures are similar. Some varieties of violets are more susceptible to bacterial diseases (they must be treated especially carefully or disposed of), and some, on the contrary, are very resistant. Preparations for treatment: Cuproxate (copper sulfate), Copper oxychloride (copper chloride).