Rafidophora

 
Рафидофора

Aroid family. Homeland - India, Africa, Indonesia, Australia, New Zealand, China. About 100 evergreen species of lianas are common in nature. Some species have needle-like formations on the stems (spines up to 1 cm long), hence the name Raphidophora Greek. Phora - "bearing," raphido - "needles."

As a houseplant, Rafidophora is grown with a descending Rhaphidophora decurvisa - a grassy vine that looks like a monster. The leaves are large, oval or heart-shaped, up to 60 cm long and 40-50 cm wide, pinnately dissected. Young leaves are whole. The surface of the face is glossy, leathery, dark green. The petiole is slightly shorter than the leaf, with a bend near the leaf blade. The inflorescence is an ear, with a wide yellow cover. The fruit is an orange berry.

Caring for Rafidofora

Temperature: In summer, the usual room, in winter it would be nice to move to a cooler place, ideally 16-18 ° C. Some species of rafidophores are grown by florists in countries with a mild climate (Italy, Spain on balconies and kindergartens), with proper watering they are able to withstand fairly low temperatures (resting period at 10-12 ° C).

Lighting: Bright but diffused light or light partial shade in summer. On dark windowsills or in plants standing in the back of the room, the leaves are small, and the petioles are too long - the decorative appearance is lost. On the south and west windows, the plant can get burns, shading is required here (tulle, mosquito net, blinds).

Watering: Plentiful from spring to autumn, watered after the top layer of earth has dried out. In winter, watering is moderate, the earthen lump should dry well .

Fertilizer: From March to August, they are fed with complex fertilizer for ornamental and deciduous plants. Top dressing every two weeks. You can use fertilizers "Uniflor growth," "Pokon for decorative and deciduous," etc.

Air humidity: Rafidophora is quite resistant to dry air, but the leaves are wiped clean of dust and sprayed from time to time. In winter, it is necessary to protect the plant from the hot air of the batteries (cover the battery with a wet towel or put the pot on a wide tray with wet moss or expanded clay).

Breeding: Spring cuttings. The handle must have a leaf and an aerial root, or kidney. Cuttings are planted in small pots in sand and leaf soil in equal parts.

Transplantation: Annually in a mixture consisting of peat land, humus, leaf land and sand in equal parts. The ground should be quite nutritious and at the same time loose. After watering, the earth should crumble, and not form a dense crust. A handful of vermiculite can be added as a baking powder instead of sand or with it.

By the way

Unlike the monstera, the lobes of Raphidophora's feathery leaves are cut very deeply, literally to the very central vein. The shape of the lobes is broadly lanceolate, evenly narrowed to the tips.

By the way

Raphidophora leaves contain some phytoestragens (lignan compounds in stems and leaves), which have anti-infective properties, in particular, they are active against malaria plasmodium.

Growing problems

Growing problems may be primarily associated with excessive watering, surprisingly, but rafidophora is easier to tolerate drying an earthen coma than waterlogging, in which leaves from the tips begin to turn yellow and die.

The second problem is the erroneous opinion that rafidophora is a shade-tolerant plant and can grow not near a window, but in a room. In fact, the plant requires shade from the sun in summer, but in winter it should be on the window or in the immediate vicinity .

A sign of lack of light is the elongated petioles of the leaf. They should be shorter than the length of the leaf, but not more than this.