Phytohormones, FAQs

On the market of horticultural drugs there are many drugs called immunomodulators, or phytohormones, and an inexperienced florist may have the opinion that these funds save plants from all diseases, pests and other misfortunes.

Indeed, quite often, with all conceivable problems in growing indoor flowers, they advise treatment with drugs such as phytohormones. What are these drugs, are they so effective, what are they different for and what are they needed for?

Plant growth stimulants - in the section Health of indoor plants.

Plant growth regulators are physiologically active compounds of natural or synthetic origin that can cause various changes in the process of plant growth and development in small quantities. By the nature of the action on plant tissues, growth regulators are divided into stimulants and inhibitors. Three types of stimulants are known: auxins, giberellins, cytokinins.

How phytohormones work

Phytohormones are biologically active compounds that interact with plant tissue cells and are a  necessary link for launching and regulating physiological processes.

For example, heteroauxin (potassium salt of indolylacetic acid) activates biochemical processes in the protoplasm of cells. Auxins facilitate the entry of active organic substances necessary   for growth processes to growing cells. In addition , auxins change the intensity of respiration, the level of redox processes and oxygen   metabolism, which also affects the intensity of growth.

• Auxin activates    cell   division and stretching, enhances the attracting ability of tissues, delays their aging, activates the synthesis of all forms of RNA, etc.
• The action of epin is due to the initiation of a series of biochemical transformations, such as activation or suppression of key enzymatic reactions, stimulation of protein synthesis, activation of photosynthesis, etc.
• The action of zircon is based on a decrease in transpiration, an increase in the absorption of water and nutrients by the roots, it contributes to the intensity of photosynthesis processes.

Heteroauxin

Indolylacetic acid (IAA or heteroauxin), the main plant hormone from the auxin group. By activating the metabolism in cells, it promotes their growth in length and differentiation, determines tropisms (orientation of the cell in the direction of growth), slows down leaf decay, etc.

In 1931, the Dutch scientist Kegl discovered that human urine contains fractions with high growth-stimulating activity. In 1933, Kegl managed to isolate in crystalline form a growth substance called auxin (from the Greek "auxano" - rastu). The formula of this compound turned out to be a rather complex organic acid. A year later, a compound of a similar structure was isolated by Kegl from corn seedlings and called auxin-b (the first substance was henceforth called auxin-a). When auxin was isolated from urine, some other fraction constantly appeared that stimulated growth processes. Kegl called this compound heteroauxin (i.e., "other auxin"), and then figured out that it was betta-indolylacetic acid. He believed that heteroauxin is not formed in plants, and its effect on growth processes is reduced to the activation of true growth substances - auxins.

Only 20 years later, studies showed that there are no auxins in plants, and heteroauxin, aka indolylacetic acid, is the most important natural plant hormone. Heteroauxin, in addition to stimulating cell stretching, affects many other processes, for example, cell division intensifies under its influence, and in the absence of a certain amount of heteroauxin, division does not occur.

Heteroauxin working solution

• 2 tablets per 10 liters of water - to accelerate the rooting of cuttings, for 10-16 hours ;
• 1 tablet for 4-5 liters of water - for treating the root lobe of seedlings before planting to a permanent place, for 3-5 hours at a temperature of 18-22 ° C ;
• 1 tablet per 1-3 liters of water - if the root system is damaged during transplantation, water the soil around the plant again after two weeks;
• 1 tablet per 10 liters of water - for aging before planting bulbs and corms, for 24 hours;
• 1 tablet per 1 liter of water - when propagating bulb and corm plants with parts of bulbs and corms, for 4-5 hours.

Kornevin

Kornevin is a root growth stimulant, an analogue of heteroauxin, available in powder form. According to the reviews of flower growers of our forum, kornevin is not very popular and copes with its functions much worse than the drug "heteroauxin." This can be attributed to the fault of the manufacturer, but cannot be considered an objective opinion.

Kornevin is a light cream powder. When buying, pay attention to the expiration date, buy the one that was produced quite recently, did not lie for several months in a warehouse or in a store. Kornevin quickly loses its properties, especially in the light and at temperatures above 25S. Therefore, it is better to immediately pour the opened package into a hermetically sealed jar.

Kornevin - instructions for use

As a rule, the root is used in a dry form for rooting cuttings or dusting the root system of the plant during transplantation. How to use: pour a small amount of powder on a sheet of paper and dip the end of the handle into it. If the handle after cutting secretes juice, it must first be dried - an hour or two, until the tip of the handle becomes semi-dry (no need to overexpose). Dry at room temperature in the shade on the newspaper.

If the cut is not watery, there is no need to dry. Just dip it in powder. It also happens that the root does not stick - if the cut is too dry. Then you just need to swipe the cut with a wet finger (no need to dunk in water to drain drops).

If you want to powder the root system of a seedling - use a dry masking brush - smear on the root powder and then on the roots. The amount of powder should be small, if you pour heavily, this will not affect the increase in rootability, only increase the consumption of the drug.

Gibberellins

Gibberellins are plant growth substances. Gibberellic acid is the white crystalline substance that is most abundant in fast-growing tissues. In total, about 60 different gibberellins were found. They are found in immature seeds and fruits, seedlings, expanding cotyledons and leaves - accelerate cell division in the area immediately adjacent to the top of the stem, and growth in the extension phase. Moreover, the action of gibberelins stimulating growth is much stronger than auxins. Under certain conditions, they can accelerate the growth of leaves, flowers and fruits. Gibberellins stimulate temperature-dependent plant development, and light contributes to the formation of gebbirillins in plant tissues. The absence or excess of gibberellins determines abnormalities such as dwarfism or overgrowth. In crop production, gibberellins are used to increase yield, increase growth intensity, stimulate seed germination (seed stratification), etc. It should be known that the acceleration of the growth of the green mass of plants should be accompanied by increased nutrition - gibberelins do not replace fertilizers.

Of the industrial drugs available to the florist, such a common drug as "Ovary" is known - a stimulant of fruit formation, DV-gibberellic acids (a package of 2 grams per 25-50 m2 of leaf mass). Designed to introduce the missing natural substances responsible for fruit formation by spraying. Analogues: Plodostim and Bud.

Epin

Epin   is a domestic version of the Japanese natural bioregulator and stimulant epibrassinolide JRDC-694. Plant growth regulator, anti-stress adaptogen, immune system stimulant.

The active ingredient in epine, epibrassinolide , belongs to the class of brassinosteroids, natural plant hormones. The first member of this class, brassinolide, was obtained by American scientists in 1979 from the pollen of Brassica napus L. (rapeseed). To date, more than 40 brassinosteroids have been isolated from various plant sources. Plants contain very small amounts of brassinosteroids, for example, 4 mg of pure brassinolide was isolated from 40 kg of pollen. Synthetic epibrassinolide is absolutely identical to natural plant hormone (according to the Institute of Bioorganic Chemistry of the National Academy of Sciences of Belarus).

Epin is compatible with other drugs. Thus, the effectiveness of epin when used together with pesticides used to etch seed material and treat plants to protect against fungal diseases has been established. Joint use allows you to reduce the rate of consumption of pesticides by 2 times.

Dilution of epine preparations, pesticides and fertilizers can be carried out in a common watering tank.

Epin action

The disadvantages of the drug are that the active substance is destroyed by light, as well as in an alkaline environment, which should be remembered when co-diluted with fertilizers and tap water. The way out can be the acidification of water with citric acid. Spraying should be carried out by placing the pot with the plant in a dark bag (60-120 l garbage bag) or overnight for the drug to be effective.

Epin improves seed germination, rooting of cuttings and seedlings, increases resistance to a number of diseases (phytophthora, peronosporosis, scab, bacteriosis and fusariosis, etc.), helps to reduce toxins, heavy metals, and excess nitrates in plant tissues. Spraying vegetative plants increases the number of ovaries, prevents their falling, accelerates fruit ripening, increases resistance to diseases.

Epin is an environmentally friendly drug. Preparations based on the active substance epine - epibrassinolide are used in fish farming, poultry farming and beekeeping. The drug is safe for fish, does not pollute soils, groundwater and surface water, is safe for beneficial insects and bees.

On sale, in addition to "epin-extra," you can also find a drug called "Epibrassinolide," similar in composition to epin.

Epin - instructions for use

• 1 ml of the drug per 5 liters of water when spraying vegetating plants;
• 1 ml of the drug per 2 liters of water when soaking the bulbs (per day);
• 1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water when soaking flower seeds (per day).

Treatment rate

• at preventive spraying once a month
• if the plant falls into unfavorable conditions (too dry air, lack of light, etc.), spraying every 7-10 days, until recovery or while the plant is in these conditions.

Zircon

Natural immunomodulator, root former, inducer of flowering and disease resistance.

Like epine, zircon is derived from plant materials. In composition, this is a solution of hydroxycinnamic acids in alcohol 0.1 g/l. Increases germination and seed germination rate. Accelerates flowering, growth and development of plants. Increases yield by about 35-50%. Sometimes you can find the wording: "protects plants from the action of ultraviolet rays" - this is not true, zircon only reduces the detrimental effect of direct sunlight, especially on shade-loving plants.

The active substance of zircon decomposes under the influence of light, therefore, spraying with zircon, like epine, is carried out in a semi-dark room (in a dark bag or overnight).

Zircon cannot be combined with drugs that stimulate root formation! But simultaneous treatment with zircon and fertilization is possible. Only a freshly prepared solution is used - it loses its properties after 30 minutes, as it stands in the light. Zircon is absorbed and consumed by the plant within 18 hours.

Zircon - instructions for use

• 1 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water when spraying vegetating plants;
• 1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water for soaking cuttings before planting (for 12-14 hours);
• 1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water when soaking the bulbs (per day);
• 1 ml of the drug per 5 liters of water when sprayed to accelerate flowering;
• 1 ml of the drug per 5 liters of water - spraying in case of damage to powdery mildew, etc. Diseases;
• In all other cases, be it drought, hypothermia, a standard working solution is recommended: 1 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water.

Remember that a weakened plant perceives an overdose of the drug more acutely and painfully. In other words, you can only make it worse.

What to choose epin or zircon

Comparing these drugs, it becomes clear that their effect differs primarily in the intensity of exposure. When treating with epin, the likelihood of harming the plant is very small, more often the drug becomes useless if used in bright light, if the treatments are carried out more often than once every 1-2 weeks. Zircon, unlike epin, can be used not only for spraying and soaking, but for watering under the root.

In
• stressful situations in the form of drought or lack of lighting, exposure to low temperatures, it is more advisable to use epin-extra.
As a
• prevention of disease and exposure to these very stressful influences of adverse conditions, it is also better to use epine.
• For faster rooting of plants that take root quite easily, it is also worth using epin.

Zircon should be processed in cases where there is no epine in the store, as well as if there are already signs of the disease, such as powdery mildew, wilting for unknown reasons, spots of incomprehensible origin (blackening along the edge of the leaf or just spots on the leaves), a change in the color of flowers (in the form of stains or circles), as well as changes in the color of leaves without visible damage and death of tissues. Zircon should be used when rooting hard-to-root cuttings or when dividing a bush (plants that reproduce only by division and/or spores and seeds often painfully tolerate root damage).

Zircon is much more effective than epin in increasing flowering and fruit formation. This can be used, for example, when harvesting citrus fruits.

Charm

Obereg is a growth regulator of natural origin, based on polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are an integral part of vitamin F. The active ingredient of the drug "Obereg": arachidonic acid - 0.15 g/l.

The drug "Obereg" is intended to increase the resistance of plants to diseases and stress, to stimulate their growth and development. Activates the immunity and vital activity of plants. Plants are becoming more resistant to diseases, sudden temperature changes and other stresses. Seed germination, plant growth and development are accelerated, yield and yield of early products increase, and branching is stimulated. It is used for processing growing plants, as well as seeds, bulbs, tubers of vegetable, berry and fruit crops. Recommended for processing plants during budding or flowering. The treatment effect lasts at least a month. Hazard class: 3. Toxicity: practically not toxic to mammals, little toxic to fish and birds. Use the prepared solution for 1-1.5 hours (for spraying or soaking seeds).

Obereg stimulant application method

Rokorenit

The drug "Rokorenit" is a root formation stimulant, the active ingredient is indolylbutyric acid - 5 g/kg. It is used to stimulate root formation, increase the survival and rooting of cuttings and seedlings of fruit, berry, decorative, flower crops. It accelerates the appearance of roots, promotes the development of a powerful root system, prevents decay, ensures better survival of plants during cutting, planting seedlings, transplanting trees and shrubs.

The drug "Rokorenit" causes the growth of a powerful root system with a large number of root hairs in a cutting or seedling, which contributes to increased nutrition of the plant, stimulates the growth and development of the aboveground part.

Method of administration

Tips for using phytohormones (from conferences)

Question: Is Epin only sprayed or can it be watered under the root? And if you just spray, does it have any smell?

Answer: Pour epine without sense, for it should be NOT ALKALINE medium, so you need to dissolve in boiled or distilled water, or drip a drop or two of lemon juice or other acid. And the soil cannot be an absolutely acidic reaction, which means that if you pour epine, then about the same thing will happen if vinegar is dropped on soda. But zircon can be watered under the spine, but the dosage cannot be exceeded, it is stronger than epin, and if the concentration is exceeded, it does not give any positive points. The smell is slightly present there, but not strong.

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Question: I wonder how it will be seen whether the epin has disintegrated in the water or not? Is disintegration synonymous with dissolution? I.e. water will not be with foam, will not be slightly cloudy, and will not smell?

Answer: In an alkaline solution, epine simply disintegrates upon dissolution, and loses all its qualities, so you need to drop at least a drop of something sour (squeeze out lemon juice). And epine foams from the fact that surfactants are added to it (as in shampoo), this is for better adhesion to the leaves, so that the solution is not immediately washed away by the rain. Now, if it doesn't foam, it's not an epin rather, but a fake. The turbidity of the epine solution can be very, very weak.

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Question: After spraying with epine, small brown spots appeared on young leaves. Old leaves are alive - healthy. Maybe I did too concentrated solution?

Answer: Most likely, the spots did not appear from the epin solution. The reason could be damage by bacteria or fungi, for example, due to waterlogging of the soil or with too frequent spraying. Perhaps the disease began even before spraying with epine, and quickly spread through the humid environment. The appearance of spots can be associated with a violation of nutrition in the soil and with a sharp drop in temperature at night. Since the action of the epin is slow, he simply did not have time to help.

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Question: Is it true that zircon, unlike epin, is not destroyed, but activated in the light?

Answer: If we are talking about a solution, then no, not true, zircon is as unstable to light as epine, the solution is not stored. However, this misconception is due to a misunderstanding that zircon increases photosynthetic potential, i.e. increases the resistance of plants to longer exposure to light. But the plant, watered with zircon, must be provided with sufficient lighting so that the effect of the drug is effective, one day after spraying.

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Question: I have an ampoule of epin in 1 ml. Dilute it with 5 liters of water or are there other sizes of the epin ampoule?

Answer: Yes, epine is always available in 1 ml ampoules and it must be diluted with 5 liters of water.

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Question: Is it possible that the drug epin may have a different percentage of concentration? For example, when I counted the permissible concentration of the epine that I bought, I received a proportion of 3 drops per 0.5 liters of water - however, I drip 2-3 drops (when it turns out) per 400 ml, I already have such a "spray."

Answer: The concentration of epin is always the same. Similar formulations may be registered under different brand names. There is Epin-extra on sale, there is EpinTM and others - the substance is the same, and different factories are produced. As a standard, the manufacturer determined that 1 ampoule or 1 ml of the drug is about 40 drops. But drops are different - someone intends a large pipette and not 40, but 20 drops.

Answer: I never measure drops, why get confused. By eye, half an ampoule for 2-2.5 liters of water, if there are few plants. If you need to soak the seeds, then why not pour all the plants with the remaining solution. It is also used for prevention. And if there are a lot of plants, then I dilute the capsule as it should be with 5 liters of water.

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Question: How to distinguish a fake, and why didn't Epin help me?

Answer: It is quite difficult to distinguish a fake. Epin has a specific smell (islet acid) and is slightly soapy. The fake may not smell at all, or turn out to be a purely soapy solution. But this is not the main thing, the effect most often does not turn out if spraying is carried out in a lighted room, even if not in direct sun; when the solution is old, you need to water it freshly diluted. If the water has an alkaline reaction, the active substance of the epine is destroyed. For example, if they are diluted in the same container with fertilizers that have an alkaline reaction, or in an unwashed container from under these fertilizers.

And it happens that the plant has already suffered, and it was treated with epin. The plant may be too weak to cope even with epin. In addition, frequent processing will not give any effect, it will be from the first processing, and the subsequent ones are simply useless. The effect of epin should be expected within two weeks, and not the next day.

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Question: Are phytohormones really as good as they are said to be? Did they help anyone?

Answer: The forum tested the use of phytohormones, the results are as follows:

And
1. what are they for? - 6.45% of respondents
2. No, it isn't. Everything is taking root with me anyway. - 16.13% of respondents
3. No, it isn't. Tried/a, did not notice the difference - 6.45% of respondents
4. Yes I did. If I know that the plant is difficult to root - 45.16% of respondents
5. Yes - 25.81% of respondents

Plant growth stimulants reviews from flower forum

• I use only if it is difficult to root. Only the fear of losing a valuable handle can mobilize me in search of a heteroauxin house, its breeding and other body movements. Kornevin stopped using. It is not particularly effective.
• I do not use stimulants, I believe that there is little benefit, and harm brings, like all stimulants.
• I used epin and immunocytoitis. They helped a lot after the illness, the pakhira easily moved away. As a growth stimulant, I do not advise you to use.
• I use, I use... And I see no harm. And everything takes root much faster.
• I also use root, for hard-to-root cuttings. Now I am rooting laurel and tried heteroauxin. A month has passed, out of three cuttings two are standing, one is thinking of bending over. I think this is a normal result.
• I actually use stimulants when it's hard to root. Recently decided to conduct an experiment. Almost three weeks ago, using phytohormones, I stuck two cuttings of philodendron in the sand, covered it with a can, and periodically ventilated it. And she put one handle in the water. Today I noticed that the one who had already put small roots in the water... and with hormonal stand while... so... Is it worth using them at all, these hormones?
• I use heteroauxin, kornevin is a typical "wrong" in my opinion.
• I use heteroauxin for hard-to-root cuttings or, if especially valuable (for me), the rose after processing has taken root much faster than just when I plant it in the ground. And I wanted to soak the streptocarpus sheets, but I didn't, I read somewhere that grassy ones do not soak in stimulants, only woody ones. So, live a century, learn a century. And from the root (let the manufacturer forgive me) sense, as with a goat of milk.
• I tried it a couple of times, but, unfortunately, did not notice much effect.
• I often use epin, zircon and heteroauxin, but naturally when necessary. Those who easily take root, I just throw into the water, well, and who is more complicated, those already in full with all the bells and whistles.

Read topics on the forums :

• Vitamins and plant growth promoters
• Growth stimulants for flowers