has yellow leaves
If the watering is excessive, the leaves wilt, turn yellow and fall off.Question: The dracena began to dry the lower leaves, then the normal green ones began to fall, now both tops have become completely bare, how can you save it?
Answer: Most often dracena turns yellow due to waterlogging of the earth, especially if the pot is too spacious, the earth dries for a long time. There is no need to wait until all the leaves turn yellow, while the tops are still green, they need to be cut off and rooted in water. Charcoal or activated carbon may be added to the water. Another reason for the yellowing of leaves in dracena can be caused by heat and dry air, it is bad in winter during the heating season or in hot summers, when you forget to water and the soil is very dry.
Dracena turns yellow in late winter, when very sunny days come after a long cloudy winter - you need to start shading.
Answer: Still, more often dracena turns yellow from overflowing, rotting roots. It looks like this - leaves fall abundantly from the plant, the trunk at the base of the leaves has become soft to the touch, young leaves rot before they have time to grow back, the tips of old leaves turn yellow very quickly, then your plant can only be saved by active actions. During the growth of the moon (see lunar calendar), the tip of the plant is cut off with a sharp knife or blade (5-10 cm, but leaves should remain on the stem of the handle and the larger the better), the wound is sprinkled with crushed coal (bought at the pharmacy), slightly dried. The cut tip (cutting) can be rooted in water or sand. But remember that when rooted to root, the cuttings will feed from the remaining leaves. Some of the leaves will die out when rooted. And the process of root regrowth itself is quite long - at least two months. If your plant is already exhausted, and the handle from it will be frail, then such a handle will not be able to give roots - it will die earlier.
Question: I bought fragrant dracena, I withstood it for three days, and then transplanted it, but several leaves around the edges began to turn yellow, then brown. The tips are brown only on a pair of leaves. Watered into a pallet abundantly, I spray with boiled water, once 10 a day; I think that it is justified - we have + 30 every day .
Answer: Of course, you can spray several times a day. But not abundantly. Water should not stagnate in the axils of the leaves. If it is constantly wet, the leaves rot. The difference in high temperatures from 30 to 18 dracene is absolutely harmless. But in the heat, a transplant is not desirable, it was necessary to wait a week - two.
Answer: This often happens after a transplant, especially at an unfavorable time (too hot). Water as standard - through the top, dracens are very tenacious, the main thing is that the volume of the pot is not very large for its root system, and high drainage to the bottom, otherwise you will definitely fill it.
Question: Somewhere since mid-June, both dracens began to turn yellow and fall off the lower leaves. At a time, I removed 10 leaves from six tops. The rest of the leaves also began to look dull. But new leaves began to grow actively, so I reassured myself that this was a planned replacement for leaves.
If there is not enough light, variegated dracens lose their color.Answer: Yes, dracena does age and die-off leaves, they are replaced with new ones, but this usually happens unnoticed by us, one or two lower leaves a month. In your case, we can assume that the air was very dry and hot (June), and you dried it out.
Answer: The leaves, especially the lower ones, can turn yellow and crumble from the invasion of ticks. If, despite watering the leaves, stubbornly turn yellow, look for pests on the dracen. Take a magnifying glass and examine on both sides. Cobwebs are optional, look for skins, secretions (droplets are light or black) and if something like this is found, you urgently need to treat with insecticide. But first, it is more accurate to identify the pest.
Question: Dracena fragrant lower leaves are bright green with yellow stripes, and the upper ones are more monochromatic, the stripes are smoothed.
Answer: If everything else is normal with her, then a lack of light is quite likely, so the yellow color has disappeared. All variegated dracens turn pale when dark. It's easy to check - move to a lighter place.
How to water dracena
Dracena is flooded (watered too often).Question: How to water the dracena after all? Wait for the ground to dry or keep wet?
Answer: It is correct to water so often that the earth has time to dry to a depth of half a pot, or even more - touch your finger inside. Depending on the temperature in the room. But the frequency of watering is also influenced by the composition and density of the soil, the heavier, denser the soil in the pot, the less often you need to water. If loose, peaty (ordinary store soil), it can be once every 3 weeks (when it is cool, about 20-21S) or once a week (when about 23-24C), once every three days (when about 26-27C). When it is very hot, around 30-32S, watering can be daily.
Dracen is worse to fill than dry.
Question: I realized that I had poured dracena, and a small stump with one stem of the root began to rot. What to do ?
Answer: Cut off the rotten part, and put in clean water, where to add activated or charcoal. Change the water in the jar more often so that it does not bloom, add coal every time. Plant cuttings when there are already good roots.
Dracena stretched out
This dracene lacks light, the trunks are exposed from below and curved.Question: I have a dracena, but it is not very attractive, tell me how to help her bring beauty. What can be done with crooked twigs, and how to help her lose her hair, otherwise she is completely bald.
Answer: Curved twigs are the result of pulling towards the sun. Put it so that the deviation is towards the room, and then do not forget to turn the pot. At the bottom of the trunk, new leaves will not grow, but you can cut off one crown lower, it will begin a new growth. And root the severed crown and also put it in this pot. You get multi-layered greens.
Answer: If the dracena does not suffer from a lack of light, then it may grow too intensively and it does not have enough food, the store soil is depleted after 1.5-2 months and it is necessary to carry out top dressing. It is advisable to transplant each year into fresh and correct soil. In summer, keep on the balcony, but not in the sun, often spray (in summer I spray early in the morning and in the evening). Once a week, bathe in the shower, do not fill. All this is called good dracena care. Then the leaves will be thick and strong.
Dracena throws off leaves
Question: Dracena throws off the leaves. I bought it recently, transplanted it, the roots are good, the trunk lives well more, but it drops small leaves. I did not flood, it is not in the sun, the temperature is 25 degrees.
Answer Natalie: Unfortunately, this is not a rare case when the owner of the plant is sure of the correct care, but the appearance of the plant suggests otherwise - such a crown in the dracena, as in the photo, can only be from rot caused by diligent watering. Sometimes this happens when a watered plant is in low temperature conditions (when transported from the store to home, on the balcony, etc.)
Question: I bought dracena, she felt so good, there was such a "crumpet," and in the fall she began to "lose weight," she began to throw off leaves, what happened to her?
Answer: Loss of lower leaves for dracen is normal, especially in winter, with heating on and lack of light.
How to transplant dracena
Gradually, the ground in the pot compacts and settles.Question: When I transplanted dracena (in the spring) I did not "tamper" with the soil and over time it settled, the roots above were bare, what to do?
Answer: Be sure to add fresh earth on top, you do not need to replant again.
Question: I bought dracena, it comes from a purchased pot, a lignified, powerful root system protrudes near the ground. Like a large tree, on the surface, like a huge ridge, is it necessary to bury the roots underground during transplantation?
Answer: It is possible and necessary to transplant such a plant into a larger pot, but over time, the roots grow, and again they find themselves above the surface of the earth. This is a natural process. This does not mean that you need to take a large pot with a margin, just keep in mind this growth feature. When planting a dracena in a new pot, place it so that the ground level is 2-3 cm below the edge of the pot. Then you and water will not pour out of it, and it will be possible to add over time.
Question: Dracena looks great, the only thing is that the roots come out at the bottom of the pot, so the question arose, is it worth transplanting it ?
Answer: The presence of roots from drainage holes is not always a sign of the need for transplantation: if the dracena is strongly dried between watering, and watered abundantly, then the roots naturally grow mainly down, in search of water. Inside the pot, there may be few roots. If dracena is watered a little and often, this does not happen. Therefore, focus on the size of the pot and for a while from the last transplant. If about a year has passed, you can safely transplant. At the same time, pay attention to how many roots are in the pot. If they did not occupy the entire space of the pot, then just replace the ground with fresh and plant in the same pot.
Question: In which pot is it better to plant dracena: ceramics or plastic? Several people are guaranteed to me that it is impossible to plant in ceramics! Everyone who planted dracena (namely dracena) in ceramics, they all died. Is it true?
Yamira's answer: In addition to the fact that these dracens were planted in ceramics, they were also not quite suitable for care, so they died. For example, my dracena from the moment it appeared in my apartment was planted in ceramics. She lived in it for a year and a half. And she felt quite good all this time.
Severina's answer: Mine sits in plastic, and if you plant glazed ceramics in ceramics, then it is not much different from plastic. Ceramics without glaze are now few, it needs to be watered often. the pot breathes and evaporates moisture faster than ceramic glaze or plastic.
Answer Kroky: My dracena lived for some time in glazed ceramics, now in plastic, I did not notice the difference.
Answer rukodelie.net/plants: pot material does not play a significant role for the roots themselves. Ceramic pots are very beautiful, but they are heavy. Choose only with a wide bottom - more stable. A plastic pot may be better in that it is easier to make drainage holes. In general, drainage is needed in any pot, and there should be many drainage holes.
How to trim dracena for branching
Question: Is it possible to cut the dracena and how to cut it for branching?
Answer: You can cut it at a time when there is enough light for a good increase - only this is the key to high-quality branching and splendor of the crown. Tentatively cut can be started from the end of January to July - that is, when growing or long daylight hours. If it is a very sunny August, it is possible in August. It is not advisable to cut in low light conditions, usually from September to January. Although if you arrange a versatile illumination, you can cut at any time of the year. Good illumination, when light falls on each crown, it can be 2 or 3 lamps. Fluorescent or LED lamps can be placed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the leaves.
The plant standing on the windowsill must be periodically turned with different sides to the light. All trunks should grow strictly vertically upward.
After pruning, two tops may appear on one trunk, maybe one or three. On thick trunks, as in fragrant dracaena, 2-3 new shoots more often grow, on dracaena with thin trunks - one or two. If only one new escape has formed, it is not branching, but continuation. But sometimes the second crown does not appear immediately, but after 1-2 weeks. Therefore, wait a little, if the second escape does not appear, then again the barrel of the dracena, literally 5-10 mm below the lonely young crown. And make sure that there is enough light, often the reason for lopsided, bad branching is precisely that.
Dracena or cordylina
Question: How to distinguish dracena from cordilina?
Answer: Do not try to distinguish them, this cannot be done by the taxonomists of plants themselves, who every now and then transfer plant species from the genus Cordyline to the genus Dracaena, and vice versa. Therefore, even if you find pictures on the Internet similar to your plant, in one case it can be called Cordilina, in another - Dracena. These are closely related systematic groups with "slippery" distinguishing features (not only vegetative).
Question: In the literature they write that they are distinguished by their roots (from the Greek word kordylle - knot, bump: by the presence of fleshy, pineal swollen roots). If these two genera are so similar, then why divide them and create a bunch of problems when identifying?
Vitaly's response:
Difference between cordylin and dracen.The genus Cordilina has about 15 species, the genus Dracena consists of 80 (according to other sources, from 40-150) species
According to the Magnoliophyte System of Aremna Takhtajyan, both genera belong to the class Liliopsida (Monocotyledones - embryo with 1 cotyledon) of the subclass Liliidae superorder Lilianae of the order Asparagales, but to different families - the genus Dracaena - Dracaenaceae, genus Cora dyline - Asteliaceae. The latter family, according to Takhtajian, is very heterogeneous and the transfer of the genus Cordyline from Dracaenaceae to Asteliaceae, following Dahlgren et al. (1985), considers it indisputable: the Cordyline ovary is three-nested with 6-15 ovules each, the Dracaena ovary is also three-nested, but with 1 seed in each nest.
There are still differences in the number of chromosomes between them. Distinctive morphological and anatomical features: in dracenae, the rhizome and roots are orange in cross section, and in cordylin - white.
Severina's answer: There is still a difference in the roots: in dracena, the roots are straight, smooth and yellow to orange, while in cordilina, the roots are nodular and white.
Cordilina gave a bastard offspring.Question: Did I understand correctly: the difference is only in the number of seeds, dracena from one flower gives one seed, and cordylina two or more. If not, please correct.
Vitaly's answer: Not from one flower, but from one ovary nest (carpel). You see, in the picture there are 3 carpels and in each seed. All these 3 carpels, when ripe, form a fruit consisting of three ovary chambers, and a certain number of seeds in each. Therefore, it is correct to say not "from one flower 1 seed," but from 1 carpel 1 seed, and from the whole fruit - 3 seeds. Yes, this is the main difference between Cordilines and Dracens.
Question: The literature says that cordylina forms many young shoots from root sprouts, but there is no dracen. That's so? Or another myth, and dracena can also multiply like that.
Vitaly's answer: Cordylines breed with cuttings (apical and stem), offspring (aka basal processes, shoots) and less often seeds, and Dracens breed only with cuttings (apical and stem) and seeds. Very few species of dracens can develop basal stolons, and even those are not found in room culture.
Care for Dracena - in the Encyclopedia of Houseplants section.