Philodendron

Aroid family. Homeland rainforests of South America. In nature, according to various sources, there are from 350 to 900 species. The genus name comes from the Greek word philo or "love" and dendron or "tree." Historical habitats are tropical rainforests, as well as floodplains and foothills.

Among the representatives of this genus there are tall tree-like or shrub-like plants, and vines. Most are epiphytes or semi-epiphytes. Some species of philodendrons can bloom in indoor conditions. Inflorescence is an ear. Others never bloom. Most species and hybrids of philodendron in nature are gigantic in size and huge leaves, in room conditions the size of the leaves is about half the size.

In the axils of leaves of all types of philodendrons, aerial roots form. Most of the philodendrons are lianas. They grow very well, tied to a support, which is ideal for a tube with moss or coconut fiber. Aerial roots are not removed, but tied or directed to the support. When buying large types of philodendrons, it should be borne in mind that they will need room in the room. With a lack of space, cirrus leaves are often injured or torn. When set close to the window glass, if the plant is standing in the hall or on a flight of stairs, there may be scars or stains from frosty glass or sunburn.

Philodendron species

• Philodendron ivy Philodendron hederaceum, aka Philodendron climbing Philodendron scandens - this ampel plant is well suited for growing in hanging baskets and planters. The leaves are small leathery, heart-shaped - 8-15 cm long and 5-10 wide. There are several varieties and cultivars. The original species with dark green leaves is one of the most shade-tolerant species. In addition, it is the smallest-leaved species of philodendron. Outwardly, it is very similar to the scindapsus, but the leaves are much thinner - more delicate.
• The warty Philodendron verrucosum philodendron is a vine with heart-shaped green-bronze leaves, 15-17 cm long. Light stripes along the side veins look like a patterned pattern. Petioles are purple and covered with reddish hairs.

• Philodendron Sello Philodendron selloum is a tree-like plant with large, deeply pinnate leaves up to 60-80 cm long, ovoid in shape. The edges of the split leaves are not even, but as if curly. It grows at home about 1.5-1.7 m. In the photo there is still a young plant - its leaves are slightly dissected, over time the cuts become deeper, in old leaves - almost to the central vein.
• Philodendron squamiferum is a large-leaved liana. Leaves are pinnate, young three-lobed, adults are always five-lobed, about 25-30 cm long. Moreover, the extreme posterior lobes are much smaller in size than the central and lateral ones. Petioles are reddish with scaly hairs.
• Philodendron twice-peristone-pruned Philodendron bipennifolium - liana, leaves are five-lobed, in nature they reach 70 cm in length, in room conditions up to 40 cm. Like other species of philodendrons, the shape is less pronounced in young leaves than in old, very young leaves are almost whole. In old leaves, five lobes are necessarily expressed - the central one with a narrow isthmus, the posterior lobes with a wavy edge, the two extreme cuttings located at the base are directed with their apices back. The lateral and posterior lobes are almost the same in size.
• Philodendron guitar-shaped Philodendron panduriforme - a liana that grows in rooms up to 2-2.5 m long, the leaves have three lobes, two lateral lobes are rounded, the central one is more than twice their length. In fact, there is no question of any guitar in the name of the species, the name of the species comes from the word pandura - literally translated as pandura - an ancient Greek instrument, like a Russian balalaika. How the name is assigned, the story is silent, but the shape of the adult leaves of the guitar-shaped philodendron are not at all similar to pandura, but they are quite suitable in size and shape. But very young leaves, by the way, remind us of an electric guitar in shape. This species of philodendron is often confused with the species Philodendron bipennifolium, especially still young plants. But in young leaves of philodendron, two-pinnate usually five lobes are formed at once, then, more and more clearly, feathery appears.

• Philodendron pedatum stop is a fast-growing vine. The leaves are shiny, split into 5-11 lobes, 45 to 70 cm long. Petioles are equal in size to the length of the leaf. Young leaves usually have 5 lobes, with age the leaves become more cut. Synonym Philodendron lobular Philodendron laciniatum. Which of the two names is more correct synonyms, scientists still argue. But it is Philodendron pedatum that is officially recognized.
• The spear-shaped philodendron, "Philodendron hastatum," is a vine with glossy whole leaves that are arrow-shaped or heart-elongated up to 35-40 cm long and bright green, delicate in color. It grows quickly, easily grows to the ceiling, needs support. It occurs under a different name - Philodendron domesticum Philodendron - but these are completely different species.
• Philodendron domesticum differs from spear-shaped only in the shape of the leaf - the leaves are oval, slightly tapering at the end, while in the spear-shaped in the shape of the leaf you can see the clear shape of the arrowhead. In leaf shape, the home philodendron is similar to the red philodendron, but its petioles are always green.

• Martius philodendron "Philodendron martianum" is not a liana, the plant forms a lush shrub. The leaves are shiny, whole, elongated heart-shaped, 40-50 cm long. Petioles swollen (thickened), slightly shorter in size than leaves. The thickened part of the petiole, in shape resembles a spindle, in adult specimens reaches a diameter of 7-8 cm. The species is also known as Philodendron cannifolium. This philodendron is planted in wide, but not too deep pots. To prevent it from tipping over to the bottom of the pot, in addition to drainage, it is better to put a heavy stone.
• Red philodendron Philodendron erubescens - liana, leaves are elongated-heart-shaped, on red petioles, reach 40-50 cm in length. Petioles are slightly shorter than leaves. Internodes are short, so the stem is not very long. Well suited for indoor cultivation, because grows small, up to 1.5 m, if tied to a support.

• Philodendron elegant Philodendron elegans is a large-leaved liana, somewhat similar to a monster. The leaves are deeply pinnate and divided into narrow segments as far as the central vein. The general outline of the leaf is oblong or ovate, about 40-50 cm wide and 50-70 cm long. It's growing pretty fast. Needs support. It also occurs under a different name - Philodendron narrowly dissected Philodendron angustisectum.
• The black-golden Philodendron melanochrysum is a large liana with heart-shaped leaves up to 60 cm long. Leaves with a copper tint and white veins. It grows quite slowly, but the houses will grow to the ceiling. The winter minimum for this type of philodendron is 16-18 ° C
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Also on sale you can find many interspecies hybrids of philodendron, for example Hybrid philodendron 'Prince of Orange', 'Red Emerald', or 'Blue Mink', or 'Purple Prince', etc.

Philodendron care

Temperature: Normal room temperature in summer. In winter, with a reduction in daylight hours, a cooler content is desirable, at 18-22 ° C, but not lower than 15 ° C. Do not allow cold drafts. If there is no direct flow of warm air from the batteries, then philodendrons winter well at normal room temperature of 22-26 ° C, provided that they are provided with additional light (using fluorescent lamps).

Lighting: Light place, with protection from direct sunlight at noon, very light partial shade. Variegated forms require a little more light, preferably morning or evening sun. Climbing philodendron has more tender leaves than other species, only the eastern or northwestern windowsill is suitable for it, or placement under the shade. Philodendrons are unpretentious plants, many of them grow both in completely artificial lighting and next to the north window. But truly powerful and spreading bushes form only in good lighting. My radiant philodendron grows from May to October on the southern windowsill, the only shade is a light mosquito net.

Watering: In spring and summer, moderate, the soil should be moist all the time (not too damp), which means that by the next watering, the land in the upper third of the pot should dry well. In winter, watering is reduced, only complete drying of the soil is not allowed, the ground should dry out, in the upper half of the pot, then you need to wait another 3-4 days before watering. With excess watering, the lower leaves can turn yellow if the soil dries for too long, cakes, is too dense and does not allow the roots to breathe, root rot can develop. Do not forget that philodendrons are mostly epiphytes, which means that the roots must breathe, which does not happen in dense swampy soil. If there is not enough moisture, the tips of the leaves dry up, with strong drying, whole, as a rule, lower leaves dry out and fall off. Sometimes, with excessive watering, water droplets protrude on the petioles and leaves.

Fertilizer: From March to October, philodendrons are fed with complex fertilizer for deciduous plants. Top dressing every two weeks. Large tree vines can add well-rotted compost once a summer to the top layer of the earth during transplantation, or without it. Feeding philodendron with fertilizers, it is important not to overfeed, otherwise the tips of the leaves turn yellow or brown, the leaves themselves wither and become lifeless. If you have added a significant proportion of humus to the soil, then do not feed it with other fertilizers for at least 2 months. On the contrary, quite often philodendrons suffer from a lack of nutrients in the soil, if they are not transplanted for a long time and forget to feed. At the same time, the leaves grind, their tips dry and turn yellow, the plant lags behind in growth.

Air humidity: Philodendrons are residents of moist forests or floodplains of rivers, they love moist air. Unfortunately, the dryness of the air cannot be compensated for by excessive irrigation. It is necessary to regularly spray plants in spring and summer, and in winter, if it is better to put pallets with wet moss-sphagnum nearby, hang the batteries with a wet sheet. Small plants are showered several times during the summer to wash off the dust. In large plants, the leaves are regularly wiped with a damp sponge.

Philodendron transplant

In spring, young plants are annually, and after three or four years old. The soil should be very loose, at the same time nutritious. pH = 5.5-6.5, i.e. weakly acidic reaction, does not like philodendron of alkaline soils. When composing your own soil mixture, use 1 part of the sod soil, 1 part of the coconut substrate, 1 part of the humus (compost), 0.5 part of coarse sand or vermiculite. The pot must be spacious enough, drainage is required to the bottom. If a salt deposit forms on the soil over time, it must be removed and the earth replaced with fresh. Use water for watering or boiled. Another recipe for soil mixture, tested by experience: 1 part of the compost, 1 part of the leaf humus, 1 part of the coconut substrate (or coconut chips, crumbs), 1/2 part of the chopped pine bark, 1/2 part of the sand, to the bottom of the pot make drainage from pieces of wine cork. Care after transplant: watering as usual, shading for the first two days, especially if it is very hot.

Propagation of philodendron

Apical or stem cuttings, as well as a leaf carved with a heel. Usually vegetative reproduction does not pose any difficulties, many philodendrons have aerial roots - just plant in the ground. But it is better to sprinkle a cut of a juicy stem with charcoal or sulfur so as not to rot in a humid environment. For planting cuttings, the soil requires lighter, universal soil or garden land with the addition of sand and vermiculite can be used. Grown rooted plants are transplanted into a more nutritious soil mixture. If you have a handle, or a sheet with a heel, without roots, it can be rooted in water, or immediately put in a pot with soil, but put it in a bag, and periodically ventilate. Evidence that the plant is rooted is the appearance of a new leaf.

Growing problems

The main problem is associated with incorrectly selected soil, when it is too dense, cakes and dries for a long time. Despite the fact that philodendrons have a large leaf mass, which means a large evaporating surface, the leaves are protected from huge loss of water by dense skin, the soil should be moist, but not damp. Even in nature, where some species of philodendrons grow in marshy areas, their roots spread over the surface of tussocks and tree trunks, are blown by all the winds, and are not immersed around the clock in slimy damp earth. Therefore, periodically loosen the earth in a pot, when transplanting, add baking powder (vermiculite, pieces of bark, small expanded clay, etc.), and let it dry between watering.

Philodendron pests

The plant can be affected by shields, thrips, ticks. Scutes are found in the form of brown, sometimes translucent plaques located on both sides of the leaf, mainly along the veins. Thrips leave a noticeable mark on the leaves in the form of silvery strokes and spots - this is how necrotic sucked areas look like. With shields and thrips, the control measures are as follows: carefully wash the leaves with a sponge and soap to remove pests and their secretions. Then water the soil with a systemic insecticide (actara, confidor). After a week, water with insecticide solution repeat.

When ticks appear, which provokes too dry air and high air temperature, yellow spots of the wrong shape appear on the sheets, puncture points can be seen in the leaf lumen, and pest skins can be seen on the back of the leaves. You need to fight ticks with the help of drugs - acaricides. Maintain high humidity (at least 40%). If the size of the plant allows, you can wash the foliage once a week under a hot shower (water temperature so that the hand tolerates).