Miltonia

Orchid family. Homeland South America. In nature, 7 species of sympodial type are widespread, growing at an altitude of 600 to 1200 m above sea level.

Some natural species are:

• Miltonia brilliant Miltonia spectabilis - has small, about 7-9 cm flat pseudobulbs, ovoid, bearing 2 leaves, light green in color, linear in shape. Flower arrows grow at the base of new bulbs, appear in late summer. Peduncle up to 30 cm long, single-flowered (maximum 2 flowers). Flowers are fragrant, 7-9 cm in diameter. Tepals are lanceolate, petals slightly wider. The lip is wide, ovoid, white, purple at the base. It blooms for approximately 1.5 months.
• Miltonia snow-white Miltonia candida - has ovoid, slightly compressed pseudobulbs, leaves are narrowly elliptical or inversely lanceolate, pointed, up to 40 cm long, 4 lower leaves and 2 upper leaves on one bulb. Peduncles erect about 40 cm long, form a loose brush with 3-5 fragrant flowers up to 9 cm in diameter. Petals are yellow with brown large spots and specks, pointed at the end. The lip is white, rounded with a strongly wavy margin and a purple spot.
• Miltonia clowesii - has oblong-ovate, compressed pseudobulbs, linear-reed leaves, pointed, light green. Peduncles are thin, erect or drooping, very long - up to 60 cm, form from 7 to 10 sequentially opening flowers 6-7.5 cm in diameter. The shape of the flower is star-shaped, the petals are pointed brown-yellow with spots. The lip is in the shape of a violin, slightly wavy, along the edge white, smoothly turning to pink, and purple at the base. Very light-loving look.
• Miltonia wedge-shaped Miltonia cuneata - has slightly conical, slightly flattened pseudobulbs, two-leaved . The leaves are sharp, about 20 cm long. The inflorescence is erect or drooping, 40-60 cm long, bears 5-8 flowers. Flowers are 7-7.5 cm in diameter, with a very weak aroma. Tepals of lanceolate shape (edge in wide waves), in brown spots. The lip is white, in the form of a trapezoid (skirt), at the base there is a growth in the form of two small ridges with reddish specks .

Many hybrids differ not only in the color and shape of the flower, but also in the compactness of the bushes, for example, in some pseudobulbs they grow in a very dense group, one to one, in others at some distance from each other. There are mainly numerous hybrids on sale, sometimes under the name "Miltonia mix" (the conditions of care concern them).

Miltonia care

Care for miltonia depends on the season - the time of year (all indicators of the microclimate change) and the phase of development. This orchid has a clear alternation of growth phase and resting phase. With growth, everything is clear: we see how new sprouts appear, they grow and develop, during this period, planned watering and feeding, provision of light. Then the growth begins to ripen - they catch up with the old ones and begin to thicken, turn into pseudobulbs - this period usually falls on the middle of autumn, the end of September. Without waiting until the bulbs are rounded, you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. At the same time, the temperature gradually decreases. The dormancy period can last from three to five months, both genetic factors and weather conditions influence this. The end of the dormant period will manifest itself either with the growth of the inflorescence or with the emergence of new vegetative growth. Then the watering is gradually resumed, increased depending on the temperature .

If you are lucky and the orchid has bloomed, this beauty can last from 3 weeks to 1.5 months. With the end of flowering, care should be reviewed, give the orchid a rest for 2-3 weeks, reducing watering. Not all orchids grow and bloom strictly according to one schedule - some bloom in spring, others in autumn. In any case, you must adjust the temperature and irrigation frequency to suit her needs.

Temperature

Miltonia is moderately heat-loving, many species are even somewhat cold-loving. But the general trend is as follows: spring and summer are the usual room temperature, if possible, from the end of spring, the beginning of summer, we contain an orchid on the balcony (depending on the degree of its warmth). The optimal temperature for growth is 20-22 ° C, preferably not higher than 26 ° C, at night a decrease of at least 4-6 ° C is required, ideally it is 14-16 ° C. Many miltonias adapt to home conditions much easier if the room is often ventilated.

With the onset of a period of rest (preferably 2-3 months), the temperature is 16-18 ° C during the day and 14-15 ° C at night. At this temperature, the relative humidity is usually in the range of 60-70%, which is enough for the orchid to do without watering and spraying. But the main guideline is the wrinkling of pseudobulbs. This is a water-storing organ, when the bulbs are too wrinkled, it is necessary to water the orchid. If it is on the block - in the traditional way, by immersion for 2-3 minutes. If in a pot, then make a thin stream from the sprayer (open the sprayer to the maximum) and spray into the pot, directing it along the inner wall. Not on the bark and roots, but only on the wall of the pot. If this is not enough, repeat the next day. But caution won't hurt.

Lighting

Miltonia needs bright diffused light. For spring-summer, the east window is perfectly bright and the northwest window is light. In winter, if there is no significant decrease in temperature on these windows, it is already dark - you need lamps, lighting. On the south and west windows, on the contrary, it is quite good from October to mid-winter - the sun does not scorch, but shines. And since February, shading is necessary - a double layer of mosquito net or a piece of tulle. Miltoni leaves can burn from direct sun when it is most aggressive, from noon to 4 pm you need to shade.

Watering

Hydration of the substrate should be regular but moderate. Miltonia roots should not be in a moist environment for long. Therefore, the frequency of irrigation depends on two factors:

• landing method
• air temperature

If the orchid sits on a block with a completely open root system, at normal room temperature it must be watered daily. If the temperature is cool, then watering during the vegetation in a day or two. Landmark: the rate of drying of the roots, they should dry out in a few hours, maximum five. I.e. if after five hours the velamen on the roots has not brightened, you should increase the time between watering. You should always water in the morning, especially if daily temperature fluctuations are pronounced.

If the orchid grows in a pot, you need to water it less often, only after completely drying the contents of the pot, after about a day - two. And it should dry in a pot no longer than 1-1.5 days.

Watering water is soft warm, about 40-42 ° C. The total immersion time in water is no more than 15 minutes, 10 minutes is enough. Hard water must be softened, for example, by freezing or boiling.

Fertilizing

Exclusively during the growth period, miltonia is fed with special fertilizer for orchids. Orchids in pots - every 2 weeks, in a concentration 2 times less than recommended; on the block - weekly, but fertilizer in a dosage of 1/4 of the recommended. Miltonias are very sensitive to an overabundance of fertilizers. The ratio of macronutrients is required in equal proportions, i.e., NPK 1:1:1, with the formula NPK 18-18-18, or 20-20-20. You need to finish feeding a little earlier than the new increase ends.

Air humidity

Miltonia requires an air humidity of about 60%. This indicator largely depends on the weather, and changes like this: for most of the year, the relative humidity in houses is at least 60%, and when it rains - about 70-80%, if it is a wet slush winter, the same 60%. As soon as it grabs the frost, it drops to 50%, when it is colder (-15 ° C) - up to 30%. They affect the humidity and ventilation of the house, the type of frames, the location and number of batteries. Meanwhile, spraying and moisturizers at less than 55% humidity is completely unnecessary, even orchids on the blocks! In order not to guess on the coffee grounds whether it is worth spraying, purchase and put a hygrometer in the orchid zone.

If the humidity is above 65%, you should have another concern - increased ventilation. The higher the humidity, the better the air circulation should be, and most importantly - the influx of fresh. Do not get carried away with fans, they drive the stained air around the room, think over the ventilation system so that a draft does not get on the plants.

Substrate

Miltonias, like phalaenopsis, are grown either in a pot or on a block. For a pot, the substrate must be prepared based on the main requirement of the epiphytes - for the roots to breathe. Therefore, pine bark is used in pieces of 2-3 cm, wine cork, foam plastic, acadama, it is worth adding a few pieces of birch coal. In this case, the voids should be 1/4-1/3 part of the pot, and the acidity of the soil pH 5.5-6.5. For stability, put 1-2 ordinary stones on the bottom. Do not abuse the use of moss sphagnum. It is good for increasing air humidity if it lies next to a pot - on a pallet, under leaves, but not in a pot with roots.

A large piece of cork wood is traditionally used as a block, but it is difficult to get it, so if you want to grow miltonia on the block, you should visit a store where beautiful driftwood is sold for aquariums, or pick up a beautiful pine root in the forest. It is often advised to apply moss sphagnum to the block under the roots, but it is better to dilute it or replace it with coconut fiber, it does not get wet and does not rot, but also prevents rot of the roots. To maintain higher humidity, moss should be tied on a block under the roots of orchids.

Flight connections

Transplantation is carried out only when the miltonia bulbs are simply protruded from the pot in all directions. Or in the event that the substrate was caked, crumbled and rammed. This threatens with long drying of the roots, asphyxia in the oxygen-free space of the soil and rot. Choose a new pot in proportion to the root system, you do not need to take too large. After transplantation, do not water the orchid for about 5-7 days .

Reproduction

At home, miltonia can only be propagated by dividing the bush. Pseudobulbs with a small part of the roots are separated during transplantation. It is advisable to divide only old, very overgrown bushes. If miltonia has only 5-6 bulbs, there is nothing to share here. Flowering of miltonia occurs only when the bush has at least 3-4 bulbs.

Harmonica on leaves

The accordion on the leaves of miltonium is often mistaken for a lack of moisture and begins to report moss into the pot or spray more often, sometimes it helps, sometimes not, sometimes it gets worse. For what reason? In fact, the accordion on the leaves of miltonium is formed due to a lack of moisture in the air and/or roots. And here's why it happens:

• air temperature is too high for this species (hybrid)
• too low humidity, well below critical (less than 40%)
• uneven watering (then more often, then less often)
• insufficiently powerful (or healthy) root system, does not cope with the absorption of water to provide growing leaves

The lubricant produced by orchids to protect the growing leaf is secreted from the inside rather than deposited by moisture on the leaves. If the roots are not able to absorb moisture due to rot, disease or high fever, you need to solve the problem, not treat the symptoms. I.e. rearrange from a hot sunny windowsill to a cooler one, if dark, then under a lamp; check whether the substrate is frozen from constant moisture; resuscitate the root system. The roots should breathe, get drunk with moisture often, but dry well between watering.

The leaves unfolded by the accordion with a good root system do not carry any trouble, if you take measures to regulate temperature and humidity, they slowly but straighten out, and the next growth will be good.