Living stones

 
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Aisoonic family. Homeland South Africa. In nature, this is more than 60 species.

Lithops in nature live on rocky and deserted terrain, merging with the surrounding landscape, sometimes completely immersed in sand or stones, this determines the features of their structure. The body of each plant consists of one or more pairs of bloated fleshy, almost fused at the base of the leaves, oppositely attached without a petiole to the root, they do not have a stem as such. The acute lack of water in the desert requires young plants to "conserve" plant tissue and be limited to only two leaves and a root system. The leaves are thick, capable of storing enough water for the plant to survive during the month of the dry period.

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In the hollow between the leaves are meristem cells, from which flowers and new leaves are formed. From the sides they are gray-green, from above lighter - partially or completely translucent leaf windows. Often, the leaves are entirely below the surface of the soil and only leaf windows remain in the light - it is through them that the processes of gas exchange and photosynthesis occur. Lithops mimicry: their shape, size and color, make them look like small stones in their natural habitat, and the name "living stones" is fully justified. However, among these succulents, there is a huge variety in size and color, the shape of the leaf gap; size and color of flowers. Some common at-home species are:

  • Lithops beautiful Lithops bella - forms a group of several pairs of identical "stone" leaves, up to 3 cm high and up to 2.5 in diameter. The color of the leaves is brownish yellow. The flowers are white, sometimes with a slight aroma .
  • Lithops divided Lithops divergens - forms a group of several pairs of leaves, not the same size from 1 to 3 cm tall. The gap between the pair of leaves is deep. The leaves are green, with large grey-green spots on the upper, slightly beveled surface. The flowers are yellow.
  • Lithops soleros Lithops salicola - forms a whole campaign of several pairs of gray leaves, about 2-2.5 cm tall and of the same diameter. The gap between the pair of leaves is not deep. The upper surface is almost flat, olive green with dark green spots. The flowers are white.
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  • Lithops false truncated Lithops pseudotruncatella - forms a small group of several pairs of leaves, not the same size from 1 to 3 cm tall and from 1 to 3 cm in diameter. The gap between the pair of leaves is deep. The leaves are grey, brownish or pinkish. On the upper almost flat upper surface there is a linear or dotted dark pattern. The flowers are bright yellow.

Lithops contain toxic substances and are dangerous for young children who are still at the age when they pull everything into their mouths to try.

By the way, in addition to the genus lithops, plants of the closely related genus Pleiospilos Pleiospilos have a similar appearance of living stones. They differ in the hemispherical shape of the leaves, as if inflated, and in addition, they form vegetative shoots from the root system, so one plant can consist of several shoots, lithops do not form such shoots. Pleiospilos is called live granite.

Lithops - care and cultivation

Temperature: During the period of active growth from February-March to autumn, the usual room. In winter, the rest period is at a temperature of 10-12 ° C, at least 8 ° C, with dry content. Growing lithops from May to September in the fresh air hardens plants, makes them stronger and promotes better flowering.

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Lighting: Lithops require 4 or 5 hours of direct sunlight in the morning, and partial shade in the afternoon. Flowers open after lunch when the brightness of the light begins to decrease. Ideal for growing south or southeast window. Some species need very light shading at midday, which can be made from a thin veil or mosquito net. Shading is also necessary for lithops, which for some time received less light (in winter), and the sudden spring sun can cause burns. At the same time, if there is no sun for 5-6 days, living stones begin to lose weight and stretch out, the lateral part of the leaves acquires a darker shade, plants can die. Fluorescent or LED lamps are suitable for lighting. They need to be placed at a distance of not further than 10 cm from plants, and seedlings at a distance of 5-7 cm.

Lithops that survived the cloudy winter should be accustomed to the spring sun gradually if they grow on the south window. On the east and west windows, they are not threatened with sunburn, and the north window is not suitable for growing "live stones" at all.

How to water lithops: Never allow water to get on the leaves and in the hollow between them. You can make the upper drainage from small pebbles, so that the lower part of the leaves of the lithops and the upper part of the roots are in the stones, and not in the ground. Watering from a pallet will not protect you completely from excess moisture, since the soil may be too saturated with water. For novice lovers of "live stones," watering from a pallet may be too risky: if there is little water, it will not reach the roots, if there is a lot, the likelihood of pouring increases.

Lithops watering by cycles: The main and most important factor to consider in the care of these succulents. Lithops have a defined annual growth cycle. Hydration is necessary only at certain stages of the cycle, and it is equally important to keep the soil dry during rest and hibernation.

Lithops are perennial plants that grow a new pair of leaves each year. Active growth - from the end of winter, and in late spring or early summer, living stones begin to hibernate. With cold nights approaching and the length of the day shrinking, lithops are ready to bloom. After it is over, the old leaves will release new ones. Their slow growth continues throughout the winter. I.e. this is not a state of complete dormancy, as in many plants on cold wintering (cacti and other succulents), but a very slow vegetation.

Lithops life cycle

Phase 1

With the beginning of summer, lithops stop growing and go into a dormant state - in their natural habitat, this is necessary for the sake of survival in order to rest during a long period of intense heat. At this time, there is practically no rain, the plants use the water that they have accumulated and stored during the growing season. They are not watered, but if the leaves begin to wrinkle, then you can pour very sparingly and carefully once - pour enough water to moisten only the top 1 cm of soil, no more. If watered as usual, the roots and leaves quickly rot, the plant dies. From the beginning of August, instead of watering, you can start spraying lithops in the morning, with very fine water dust, imitating the dew that falls in the desert after cold nights. The amount of moisture is such that the plants are completely dry after half an hour and the remains of water in the gap between the leaves are categorically unacceptable - if it does not rot, it will cause a burn in the sun!

Phase 2

From about mid-August, we begin watering, gradually increasing it. The usual irrigation mode for lithops should be plentiful, but rare, with drying. The fact is that these succulents have a root root that goes deep into the ground, and precipitation falls heavily in the desert, shedding the soil well. But after watering by the next time the soil should thoroughly dry out. Moreover, dry out quite quickly, and this is achieved by compiling the correct soil. The period of abundant moisture stimulates new growth in living stones. It manifests itself in the fact that the gap between the leaves begins to increase, diverge to the sides and a bud appears from it. True, lithops bloom only at the age of three, sometimes five years. With the end of flowering, the old leaves completely diverge, and a new pair of leaves appears. They grow and thicken, at one root there are two pairs of leaves at a certain point. Old - serve as a source of nutrients and water for new growth. With the end of flowering, regular watering is again reduced so that the plants smoothly move to the winter dormant period.

Phase 3

This period at home is forced, since there is always not enough light in the winter months. In nature, plants in this phase are also in a period of slow growth. The process of changing leaves is called molting - it is very characteristic, as if an old skin from a lizard, old leaves come off new ones, but not in a month or two, but practically throughout autumn and winter. Slowly grow and pour new leaves, gradually wrinkle, giving moisture old. The temperature during this period is optimal about 10-12 ° C and watering completely stops. Dew does not fall out during this period, so you can forget about moisturizing. Since vegetation and photosynthesis processes continue in winter, plants need very good lighting, if you do not have a south window, you should connect lamps.

Phase 4

By the end of winter, the old pair of leaves completely squeezed themselves for the life of new ones, it turns into two translucent skins. New leaves should be juicy with a characteristic species color. Do not tear off or break off old leaves until they have completely wilted. Watering is resumed when the old leaves become paper thin. Gradually, the amount of moisture increases and by the end of March, when there is a lot of sun, spring is in full swing, watering as usual (abundant with drying). By the end of May, watering decreases again. The annual cycle ends.

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When growing at home in lithops, the development cycle does not always strictly correspond to the above plan, sometimes it shifts and flowering occurs not in autumn, but in mid-summer, it depends on weather conditions, and on how and how many plants were illuminated in winter, perhaps new leaves will complete development faster.

Soil and Lithops Transfer

Live stones need to be transplanted into pots of such a height that straightened roots fit completely, the width depends on the number of plants in one container, it is better to plant in a group at a distance of about 2 cm between specimens, while no more than 3-5 plants in a pot - for such small groups it is easier to carry out care than when they are planted in a large batch. And according to the observations of flower growers, lithops grow worse as single plants in individual pots. Perhaps this is due to the temperature of the wet soil, it can be assumed that the raw soil is colder in a small pot than in a wide area, and this is a significant factor. Lithops do not like root hypothermia, especially in damp - in nature, the surrounding stones and soil warm up well in a day and retain heat for a long time, and the soil dries quickly.

By the way, drainage is not needed in clay pots. Sometimes lithops are planted in plastic cacti that are deeper than required. In such you need to pour a layer of drainage, for example, from pieces of foam or expanded clay. Soil for lithops: 1 part of light sod earth (or leaf from under birches and limes), 1 part of coarse sand or very small gravel (1-2 mm). If you use store soil for cacti, then add the 2 part of the gravel crumb to the 1 part. Thus, the substrate of lithopsam is prepared as for cacti, only with a greater proportion of sand and gravel. Do not forget to disinfect the soil mixture before planting, for example, keeping it on a baking sheet in a preheated oven for half an hour.

Lithops should be placed so that the rod root is completely expanded in height, does not bend or break; three-quarters of the leaves remained above the soil level, the rest is covered by an upper drainage of large gravel or river or decorative stones measuring 5-7 mm - i.e. voids, air pockets between the stone embankment are large.

If you bought Dutch lithops, then most likely it is planted in ordinary peat land, in which you can grow any tropical plants, but not succulents. Such soil is unevenly wetted, and after wetting it holds water for a long time, as a result, sooner or later living stones rot. Therefore, they must be transplanted with a complete replacement of the soil. First, lithops must be thoroughly watered, the roots must be soaked - wet ones are easier to free from the ground. Then carefully, using a wooden toothpick, select the peat fibers. After planting in fresh soil (straighten the roots vertically, do not tamper with the ground) do not water for several days.

Top dressing: Litops are not needed, provided that the plants are transplanted annually into fresh soil. If the succulents have not been transplanted for more than two years, you can use fertilizer for cacti and then, at a dosage of half the recommended one. In general, fertilizers only harm.

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Air humidity: Lithops tolerate dry air well, and spraying can be used as a transition humidification from dormancy to new growth.

Lithops propagation

The only way to breed is with seeds in early spring. You can buy seeds in the store or get your own. Lithops are easily pollinated by hand: if there are two separate flowering plants, pollen is transferred from one flower to another with a brush. Ripening of fruits and ripening of seeds lasts about 9 months. Seeds are small, it is better to sow on the sand. Moisten from the spray bottle. At an average temperature of 25 ° C, fresh litops seeds germinate perfectly for 7-10 days. Seedlings grow slowly, real leaves appear only 4-6 months from emergence.

The first year they are not touched, leaving them in the same area where they were sown, and the next year after molting they are dipped into new soil (a mixture of universal soil and gravel crumbs or sand). The secret of healthy seedlings is growth in the first month in conditions of high humidity (in a greenhouse with mandatory ventilation) and good lighting.

Photographs of Alyonushka, Manga, Koziava, ritka, JuliJulia, andre11561 are used for illustrations