Marant family. The native land is the tropics of America: Brazil, Bolivia, Ecuador, Peru, Colombia, at an altitude of 100 to 500 m above sea level. There are 15 species in nature. Ktenanta (still translated Ktenante) is sometimes confused with calathea, they are really similar and are closely related. All ktenants differ from other marant ones in longer petioles - 2-4 times longer than the leaf itself, and a more elongated shape of the leaf plate.

Types and varieties of ctenants

• Ktenant Oppenheim Ctenanthe oppenheimiana is a tall species among ktenants, up to 90-120 m tall at home in a pot, in nature about 150-180 cm. Leaves on long petioles are lanceolate, obovate at the base at the petiole, only about 20-30 cm long. Coloring of leaves with alternating gray and gray-green stripes. The cultivar Ctenanthe oppenheimiana 'Tricolor' has several strokes of white and pink in color.
• The species of Ktenanta bristly Ctenanthe setosa is very similar to Ctenanthe oppenheimiana, the differences at first glance are difficult to discern, even the height of the bush in the setosa reaches an average of 90 cm. In fact, the Ktenanta bristly (setosa) has a leaf plate wider at the base, thinner stripes on the leaves, the reverse side of the leaf is purple, but the main thing lies in the name - the petioles of the leaf are covered with thick hairs. Oppenheim's Ktenanta leaves are narrower and more pointed towards the end of the leaf, the reverse side of the leaf is grey-green. Ctenanta setosa variety Gray Star 'Gray Star' - differs in that the color of the leaf is almost completely gray or gray-green with thin stripes of green along the veins.
• Ctenanthe lubbersiana is a medium-sized species about 80-100 cm tall. The leaves are oblong dark green above and pale green below in the natural species, there are several varieties, for example, with variegated streaks (like viral speckling), which on the leaf range from creamy yellow to light green, the variety 'Brazilian Snow' - in light cream, almost white wide stripes painted almost half of the leaf, from the middle to the tip. Variety Ctenanthe lubbersiana 'Tropical Dragon' - with wide cream stripes.
• Ctenanthe marantifolia - this species was formerly called Ctenanthe pilosa, many people know the variety 'Golden Mosaic'. It has leaves about 20 cm long and 8 cm wide, dark green with light green and yellow interspersed. Shoots have basal leaves at the base, above the stem branches, internodes (distance between nodes) about 50 cm. Golden Mosaic is the only variety of this species and it is practically a twin of Ktenanta Lubbers variety Tropical Dragon Ctenanthe lubbersiana 'Tropical Dragon', both plants from Brazil, and they cannot be distinguished by a layperson.
• Ctenanta pleasant Ctenanthe amabilis - has typical elongated leaves of gray and gray-green color, differs in that it tends not to reach up or grow in a compact bush, but to grow strongly in width. In nature, it forms low dense curtains, at home it widely fills the pot (not too high, but a wide container is required), the height of the bush is on average about 40 cm. According to the observations of flower growers, this species requires a little more abundant watering than many others.
• Ctenanthe burle-marxii is a stunted species with many popular varieties. On average, plants do not exceed 40 cm in height, the original species has rather wide, almost rectangular silver-gray leaves with dark green stripes along the veins. The variety Ctenanthe burle-marxii 'Amagris' is even more compact - no higher than 30 cm, the leaves on top are silver-gray, dulled at the end, the veins are painted in very thin stripes in green, the reverse side with a lilac (purple) tint.
• Ctenantha compressed Ctenanthe compressa - medium height, bush about 40-45 cm tall, leaves of the usual green color, without a bluish or gray tint, without contrasting stripes, there may be slightly expressed transverse stripes of a lighter green tint. The leaves are almost rectangular in shape, as in burle-marxi. Outwardly, this species is very similar to one of the species of maranta, quite rare at home Maranta arundinacea. The difference is that the maranta have nodules on the roots, the ktenants just juicy even roots.

Ktenanta care

All varieties of kitten need the same care, the only feature: varieties with light spots on the leaves of light need a little more, although in nature they grow in semi-shady places, lighting is quite good throughout the year.

Temperature

The tenant is thermophilic, it is undesirable that the temperature drops below 16 ° C, does not tolerate draft and sharp changes in temperature. In summer, it is optimal 20-25 ° С, in winter 18-20 ° С. It should also be noted that the kitten does not like it when it is moved from place to place. If you put pots on the balcony, then take into account the night temperature drop, for the plant the critical border is + 13 ° С.

Lighting

Partial shade or bright scattered light. In a sunny or too dark place, the color of the leaves is lost. The windowsill of the eastern, northwestern and northern windows is well suited, you can put it next to the western or southern windows, under the shading of light tulle (veils, nets). In winter, make sure that the leaves do not touch cold glass. Direct sun in the period up to 11 hours and after 17 hours does not harm at all and even useful.

Watering

Quite plentiful during the growth period, but only after the top layer of the earth in the pot dries, the ktenanta does not like excess dampness. If the pot is large, then wait two to three days, after drying the top layer of the earth, only then water. Under cool conditions, watering is very moderate, with good drying of the soil. Pour only soft filtered water over the ktenant. If you live in an area where there are no industrial emissions, it is better to use rainwater.

Fertilizer

From April to August, ctenants can be fed with complex fertilizer for indoor deciduous plants, no more than once every two weeks, it is better to take fertilizer at a concentration slightly less than recommended. The plant is sensitive to excess or overfeeding with fertilizers. After transplantation, the ktenant is not fed for at least a month. Read more about the features of care and fertilizers of Marant.

Air humidity

Kentanta loves very humid air, optimal for it is 55-75%. In this regard, you need to take measures for possible moisture for the heating season. If from May to October, while the batteries are cold, the humidity naturally stays within the required limits, then as soon as the heating is turned on, the air becomes unforgivably dry, in severe frosts in winter, the humidity barely reaches 25%. This is so critical that no spraying helps. The best way out is to put a humidifier next to it if there isn't one - place the pot on a tray of wet sphagnum moss (moisturise it regularly) and cover the batteries with wet towels or damp sheets.

Flight connections

Annually transfer the ctenante to light, well-drained soil consisting of 2-3 parts of leaf, 1 part of humus, 1/5-1/6 part of fine gravel or zeolite granules. The easiest way to buy cat filler for toilets "Barsik" from zeolite - such small gray-brown crumbs, the size of buckwheat. They need to be washed well from dust and mixed with soil. It is not bad to add pieces of birch coals to the soil mixture.

Reproduction

Dividing the bush when transplanting in the spring. Remove the plant from the pot, separate 1-2 leaves with a small part of the roots with a knife on the side of the root coma. For planting, you should not take very spacious pots, in them marant grow very slowly. Delenki are covered with a plastic bag and kept in a warm and bright place until the plants take root, it takes one to two weeks.

Features of Ktenant

All ctenants have the unique property of turning leaves. We already know that Maranta, raise leaflets up at night, as in prayer, and straighten in the morning - so they are guided in space relative to the world, for this in their homeland - in Latin America, all Maranta are called praying plants. But striving for the sun (light source) is not the only reason for the turn of the leaves. Sometimes movement is a pronounced protective reaction, in sunny weather the plant turns the leaves to reduce transpiration, excessive evaporation of moisture. If you look closely, the leaves turn along the luminous flux, sideways to the sun, with the edge of the leaf - this is how the heating surface is smaller than when the leaves are in a horizontal position. Moreover, what is interesting, the plant chooses how it is more convenient for it - it can raise the leaves up, or lower them, almost perpendicular to the floor. Please note that if you suddenly pressed the leaves to the petioles on a spring or summer day, it may be hot or dry! The sun may no longer shine through the window, but the leaves still press against the petioles. The fact is that in this position, moisture evaporation also occurs in a more economical mode - the humidity inside the bush, between the petioles and pressed leaves, remains better than when the leaves are straightened.

Thus, watching your ktenant (or other marant), you can understand - it is hot, too intense sun, or both. To avoid burns and not overheat - the leaves will become an edge to the light. But if there is no sun, look at the thermometer - perhaps too stuffy, hot, remember how long they watered. With very strong re-drying, the leaves are made sluggish, like rags, but before that the plant will do everything to save evaporation of moisture - it will squeeze the leaves.

In some cases, the leaves on one side of the plant are lowered, and on the other side are raised, so you can observe the reaction to the flows of warm air from the battery and the orientation of the plant to the light source.

The Challenges of Growing a Ktenant

Ktenants, as a rule, are not prone to various diseases, but problems can arise when the humidity is too low - the leaves dry and brown. Raise humidity levels by putting plants on pallets with wet pebbles or spray frequently (5-6 times a day). It is bad for plants in unventilated rooms, at any time of the year, when it is stuffy and hot. Ctenants do not tolerate toxic fumes from building materials - the edges of the leaves dry, turn yellow or brown, plants inhibit growth. If the watering is correct, think, perhaps this is a reaction to smoke or evaporation of materials after the renovation of the apartment.

Pests: Spider mite and mealybug are the most likely threats. The best way to prevent pests is to keep plants clean, regularly inspect and wash off dust in a hot shower - marants calmly tolerate contact with hot water at 55 ° C.

Treatment: Get rid of pests with insecticides - worms are best watered and sprayed with actara or confidor. These drugs do not work against ticks - arthropods must be destroyed with acaricides: Apollo, Vermitek, Actellic, etc. Repeat the course of treatment every ten days for a month.

Diseases: Ctenants may be susceptible to gray rot and other fungal diseases due to increased humidity or excessive watering.

Prevention: ensure good air circulation around plants, and watering as the soil dries, periodically loosen the soil in pots.

Treatment: if the plant is already sick, you need to cut off the areas affected by the disease, replace the soil if it has mold and apply spraying with fungicide.

Secrets of growing marants from personal experience