Each novice sower inevitably has a bunch of questions, large and small, at all stages of sowing. Over the years of the existence of the forum and the site, we have developed a team of lovers of growing cacti from seeds, who have accumulated sufficient experience in this "art" and answer these questions. These are Pola, Stivi, Severina, Anyuta, irina-bahus. I will try to organize these answers a little in order to show that each sower chooses the most convenient mode for himself, and our seedlings grow under fairly different conditions, but not beyond the generally accepted standards for growing cacti from seeds.
| Conditions and care | Anyuta | Pola | Stivi | Severina | irina-bahus |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Seeding | |||||
| Inoculum | On this issue, the opinion is the same - the capacity should be small, from 2 to 5 cm. | ||||
| Soil for sowing | 50-70% sand, the rest is soil for succulents | to the bottom of sphagnum and fine expanded clay, then a mixture of pebbles with a fraction of 2-4 mm + soil for cacti + zeolite/perlite in a ratio of 2:2:1 | mineral substrate (sand, stones, zeolite, broken brick) | shop for cacti | mixture in equal fractions of sand and peat "Violet" |
Conclusions: there is an opinion that the ground can be very diverse, the main thing is to understand its purpose. It should be light, permeable, with a predominance of particles with a fraction of 1-2 mm and as clean as possible (disinfected). This is due to the fact that in the homeland of cacti, seed germination occurs after the drought and heat season, when temperatures can be in the region of 50 degrees for several months. Under these conditions, the soil is practically sterile, and the seeds and seedlings of cacti do not have a mechanism of resistance to infections. | Soaking before sowing | rarely (in case of suspicious seeds or to get rid of leftover berries) | does not soak | soaks in manganese from 4 hours to a day, but not always | no, it isn't | soaking in cherry-colored manganese from 6 hours to a day, but not always |
Conclusions: soaking accelerates germination, and soaking in manganese additionally disinfects the seeds. But this is not at all mandatory: seeds that grow for a long time will grow for a long time, and disinfection can be carried out by adding manganese or Fitosporin to irrigation water. | |||||
| Temperature day/night | day 30 ° С/night not lower than 20 ° C | not lower than 22 ° C with differences of 5-10 degrees day/night due to heating | 25-35 ° C during the day, 16-19 ° C at night | room (which one is) | during the day about 30 ° C/at night about 20 ° C |
Conclusions: here it is also necessary to take into account the type of cacti, but in the most common case it is advisable to keep the temperature above 20 degrees and have a difference in day and night temperatures (as an imitation of natural conditions). In addition, the higher the temperature, the less bacteria appear. | |||||
| Illumination mode | does not shine | highlights 12-14 hours in different modes (12-12, 14-10, 6-6-6-6, did not observe the difference) | highlights only in winter for 12 hours | additional lighting for 14 hours (from getting up to laying) | brightens only in the dark for about 14 hours |
Conclusions: it must be understood that in nature seedlings grow under the shading of large cacti and surrounding vegetation, therefore, before germination and for the first time after germination, light in large quantities is not required. Then it is best to look at the condition of the seedlings: if they are strong, normal green - you can not light up. Remember that most seedlings are drawn at first, they are drawn to the light in nature, and teach to the daytime sun very gradually. | |||||
| Seeding humidity | up to seedlings maximum humidity | the first three days swamp, then slightly reduces humidity due to holes in the lid | the first two days keeps the swamp, then drier | to seedlings in the swamp | to seedlings and the first time after seedlings in a swamp, then gradually reduces humidity, but not until complete drying |
Conclusions: in general, the opinion is almost the same - at first the humidity is maximum, then it must be gradually (I emphasize - gradually!) Reduced, be sure to observe the condition of the seedlings. | |||||
| Sowing ventilation | out of curiosity | twice a day for 10-20 minutes, then increases the airing time | does not ventilate to seedlings | out of curiosity | to seedlings by curiosity, then daily a little more opens the lid |
Conclusions: here, too, there is practically a single opinion - before seedlings, you can ventilate, or you can not ventilate, and after seedlings, it is imperative to ventilate, gradually increasing the time. It is not necessary to record the time on a stopwatch. | |||||
2. Seedlings | |||||
| Temperature day/night | not less than 20 ° C | 22 ° C with a drop of 5-10 ° C | during the day 25-35 ° C, at night 16-19 ° C | room (which one is) | during the day about 30 ° C/at night about 20 ° C |
Conclusions: as a rule, after emergence, the temperature regime does not change. | |||||
| Additional light | winter 8-12 hours | 12-14 hours | 12 hours in winter | a full day under lamps in the dark, in summer without exposure | in the dark for 14 hours |
Conclusions: the opinion is the same - it is necessary to highlight the seedlings. | |||||
| Soil moisture | downward, preventing complete drying of the soil | descending, also without complete drying | keeps maximum humidity for the first two weeks from seedlings, then reduces it due to ventilation | moderate, do not arrange a swamp, but also do not dry out | the first time (about 2-3 weeks) keeps maximum humidity, then gradually reduces |
Conclusions: here experienced sowers are almost unanimous: a gradual decrease in humidity, otherwise the seedling simply does not need to grow roots when it already has excess water. | |||||
| Where to put the seed husk | it is better to either carefully remove the seed husk, or at least move it away from the cactus: there have been cases of decay. In the ideal case, the hats fall off themselves, but sometimes they last a long time, and then you can take them off yourself, first spray them. But if the hat stubbornly does not get off, then it is better to wait: there is damage to the growth point of the seedling from our curiosity, sometimes it is fatal. | ||||
| Seedling ventilation | 2 times a day for 5-10 minutes | starts at 20 minutes a day and gradually increases the time | does not remove the lid for the first two weeks, then twice a day, gradually increasing the time | out of curiosity | the first 2-3 weeks by curiosity, then an hour in the evening and then increasing |
Conclusions: here, too, the principle is clear: a gradual accustoming to normal life. | |||||
| First pick | cramped (2-6 months) | either for tightness, or for medical reasons, or as intensive growth stops to deliberately accelerate the growth of seedlings | by mood and by "medical indicators" | by mood and by requirements of different types | by mood and by "medical indicators" |
Conclusions: there is an opinion that frequent picks contribute to the enhanced growth of the root system, and most likely this is true. But by no means all seedlings calmly survive the first dive, so you can take your time with increased growth (if, for example, few seedlings have risen). In addition, it has been repeatedly noticed that seedlings grow better on a "collective farm." Therefore, one of the main reasons for the first dive is the overgrowth of the soil with blue-green algae, which is completely aesthetic and slows down the air access to the roots and root neck. When you get tired of cleaning off the upper green or already black layer with algae, it is better to peel it into fresh soil. Naturally, any mold, rot and other infection is an obligatory cause of a dive. The second significant reason is that seedlings begin to crowd and interfere with each other, which means that the roots may not have enough food. As a rule, these two reasons do not happen until the monthly age of seedlings, but the more time passes, the more often the same "mood" appears, which was indicated by all seedlings without exception. | |||||
3. First pick | |||||
| Soil composition for seedlings | slightly less than half of the sand, the rest is soil for succulents, with more coarse particles | removes sphagnum and perlite from the sowing soil | into mineral | shop for cacti | into cactus with coarse sand |
Conclusions: this is again a gradual training of seedlings for adulthood. The general requirement for soil is that it should be a little rougher (to grow the root system) and a little more nutritious. | |||||
| Dive burial | sprinkles the neck of the cactus with sand or zeolite | does not bury | deepens minimally | does not bury (only the root in the ground) | sprinkles a cactus neck with sand for stability |
Conclusions: here the sowers are also almost united - to bury at a minimum. | |||||
| Soil humidity during diving | in slightly moist | in slightly moist | in slightly wet | in which is | in slightly wet |
Conclusions: here you need to understand that during a dive, part of the roots is inevitably damaged (and there are not very many of them during the first dive). High humidity in conditions when the seedling cannot fully drink, inevitably leads to decay. Therefore, it is necessary to give the child time to increase the suction roots. Low humidity is usually defined as the state in which it is convenient to make holes for seedlings, the soil should not crumble. | |||||
| Watering | first watering in 3-5 days | depending on the age of the seedlings and damage to the root system, very small 4-6 hours after picking, seedlings aged about six months after 2 days | after complete drying of the soil (meaning the first watering after diving) | does not water immediately after the dive | three days does not water at all, then another three days only sprays, and only then the first watering |
Conclusions: there are the same reasons that caused the moisture of the soil during the dive: to give time to grow roots, heal wounds, and only then drink normally. A small moisture content of the soil is quite enough not to dry out. | |||||
| Additional lighting and airing | does not ventilate (seedlings are without a lid), illuminates only in winter for 8-12 hours | after six months it does not shine, but it is shaded with paper with slots, there is no airing (already without a cover) | does not ventilate (already without a cover), additional lighting only in winter for 12 hours | ventilates by curiosity, additional light only in the dark | does not ventilate (seedlings without a lid) and highlights only in winter for 8 hours |
Conclusions: as a rule, after the first dive, ventilation already disappears, because most crops already live in normal conditions. Additional light in the dark remains necessary, and in the summer it is not needed. But I want to remind you: in nature, small seedlings are in the shade of large plants, so in summer there is no need to put small seedlings in direct sun, it is better to shade them with white paper on the southern windows. From the oversupply of the sun, the seedlings become reddish and slow down growth, and from the burn, a tiny cactus can bend. | |||||
| 4. Collecting and storing their seeds | |||||
In general, seeds need to be harvested when the fruit freely moves away from the mother plant. The seeds can be separated from the mucus, if the fruit is not dry, and dried, or you can grind between two napkins and leave to dry. After that, shake them off into some bag and store at a constant temperature. It is not necessary to store in the refrigerator. If the temperature is constant, the seeds will retain their germination for a long time. Naturally, for each specific case, you need to read about the features of this species! | |||||
You can read about where to get cactus seeds, when to sow, how to get seeds from your cacti and much more in the article Reproduction of cacti by seeds.
Growing seedlings without lighting and heating
Our cactusists tested the method of growing cactus seedlings, the author of which is L.K. Elizarov, Moscow. Here's how he describes his method:
The climate of Russia, especially in the north, is harsh. Summer is short, winter is long. Sowing without lighting and heating is possible only in late spring and early summer, but even in this case, seedlings very often do not have time to reach such a size before winter that they should not be watered in winter. And with irrigation, they easily rot. We have to vaccinate, and those species that do not need vaccination in adulthood. I sowed cacti for many years the way most people sow - under fluorescent lamps. The results, of course, are not bad, but they did not satisfy me. And mainly because the seasonality of crops remained: either in winter or by spring. And I need such a technique so that you can sow at any time of the year.
A few years ago, many empty plastic water bottles appeared. Last year I tried sowing in these bottles. The method of seeding in pre-sterilized glass jars has long been known. However, glass jars have narrow necks and are difficult to handle. Plastic bottles can be cut anywhere across so that it is convenient to work with sowing and seedlings. And then the halves enter one another very tightly, and high humidity in the sowing is ensured. In this case, water evaporates very slightly from the soil, and then a small amount of it, which nevertheless evaporates, condenses on the walls and flows again into the soil. In general, the inoculation provides sterility, moist air and distilled water. As a result, among other things, calcareous plaque never forms on seedlings, which is known to sometimes lead to the death of seedlings. By the way, several hundred seeds can be sown in a large two-liter bottle.
I took a chance and hung my bottles, fitted with wire hooks on the neck, on the window. As they say in such cases, the results exceeded all expectations. It turned out that sowing suspended from the window is not required. Seedlings develop strong, with spines. Even in winter, little stretches. Photophilous species, such as, for example, echinocacti of Georgonia or Ingens, in winter, of course, stretch slightly, but when they reach a height of 2-3 cm, I transfer them to ordinary dishes in summer and they quickly acquire a good correct shape. And such rarities as ariocarpus or, for example, mammilaria goldia, are less photophilous and can be constantly contained in plastic bottles. All ariocarpuses develop powerful FmorkovkaF. A young seedling of neogomesy at the age of three and a half months even formed 2 buds, which, of course, I removed.
The fact is that in late autumn before snow falls in the usual cloudy weather for this time of year, the illumination on the windowsills of even the southern orientation drops to 5000 and even to 1000 lux. After snow falls in winter, the illumination on the windows (I have eastern windows - 2 and southern windows - 1 exposures) increases significantly - up to 25000-30000 lux in cloudy weather, and up to 75,000 in sunny weather. Under daylight lamps at a distance of 4 cm from the tube, the illumination reaches 28,000 lux. It would seem that this is a very good illumination, because it is known from the literature and from practice that many types of cacti have a illumination of 30,000 lux even for flowering and ripening of mature seeds. However, already 1 cm further - at a distance of 5 cm from the tube - the illumination drops to 22,000 lux. It is clear that if we have a cactus at least a few centimeters in size, the illumination under the lamps of its middle and lower part of the stem will be completely insufficient. On the windows, the illumination is uniform, albeit one-sided. But the latter can be fought by installing reflectors. As the latter, I use tapes of foil 10 cm wide, which I attach to the rows of bottles from the side of the room at the level of the surface of the substrate. This increases the illumination in bottles by 30%. Of course, it would be easier to hang not individual ribbons, but a whole screen window. But in this case, on the one hand, we deprive ourselves of daylight, and so severely limited by the hanging rows of bottles. On the other hand, we will put our plants in unfavorable conditions of an extremely short day - in December-January, when the length of the day is reduced to 7 hours. And with ribbons of reflectors, plants, although closed from direct rays of room lighting, nevertheless have a photoperiod of normal, about 12 hours, duration.
In the spring, when the sun begins to bake, bottled seedlings must be protected from burns. To do this, I use translucent paper - parchment, which I place in sunny weather between hung bottles and window glass.
A few words about the temperature regime. In winter, the coldest place on the window is the windowsill, where cold air flows from the glass surface. My measurements showed that at the top of the window opening, the air temperature can be 10 ° C higher than on the windowsill. Therefore, I use the windowsill only for wintering adult plants. And I place crops only in suspended bottles. High temperatures at the top of the window opening allow for sowing even in the dead of winter. For example, I sowed in December. The results are no worse than summer.
Without watering, bottled seedlings winter magnificently. I had no waste over the winter! What species did I sow in the second half of summer and winter?
Acanthocalycium griseum, Ariocarpus furfuraceus, retusus, trigonus, Astrophytum coahuilense, Aztekium hintonii, Cereus peruvianus, Eriosyce aurata, Ceratistes, Sandilon, Geohintonia mexicana,Melocactus azureus, robustispinus. This list is only a small part of my crops. All seedlings wintered without problems, although many of them have enough FkaprisnyF.
And the last question, although it is one of the first in its importance in my methodology, is how to ensure that parts of a plastic bottle fit tightly into one another. It is not difficult to cut off the lower - FRF part of the bottle. The upper part, in order for it to become a little narrower than the lower part, I plunge into hot water. You need to dip the bottom edge to a width of no more than 1 cm. I do this in a frying pan. So the water heats up faster. I am waiting for bubbles to actively rise from the bottom. It is at this point that I dunk the bottle in water for half a second. If you hold the plastic a little longer, the bottom edge will shrink too much and become unusable. We'll have to cut it off and try again. Also, you cannot dip in steep boiling water - the result will be the same.
When the width of the upper half is adjusted correctly, it enters the lower part tightly and, being suspended by the hook on the neck to the wire, reliably holds the relatively heavy lower part with the substrate and seedlings. I had only one, although also a very annoying case when the bottom with the sowing of Astrophytum coahuilense - there were no less than fifty seedlings - jumped out of the top. Due to the fact that the seedlings were very young, some of them died.
Before sowing, I, of course, sterilize the sowing mixture. I hardly use sand - I use small brick crumbs in a proportion of 1/2 to 1/3 of the volume.
Summing up the above, I can conclude that the above technique allows sowing at any time of the year, providing crops and seedlings with the necessary heat, light, humid air and distilled water. In total, I currently have over 300 bottles of crops and young plants on my windows.
The material was provided by the Society for the Study of Cacti and Other Dried Plants (Moscow).
All of the cactus forumchans who tried growing cacti from seeds were satisfied with this method. It remains to note that the soil is used, as for ordinary sowing. By the way, another difference from the usual sowing is that you do not need to take off your hats and remove the seed husk. The experience of Natasha (Stivi) and Irina (irina-bahus) showed that there are no troubles from the husk. While this is a rather new method for us, we continue to master it, so if you really want to experiment, then be prepared for certain losses (as well as with any method of seed germination). And join our discussion on the forum.
Summing up the whole topic, I want to say: just as there is no single pill for all diseases, there is no single exact recipe for growing all cacti.
From the very beginning, you need to carefully observe the sowing, because all cacti are different, like people. Someone will dry out from underfilling, someone will forgive you if you forget to water, and someone will quickly rot from excess water. Someone will blush on the windowsill, and he will have to be put aside in a less sunny place, and someone will stretch out closer to the glass. Someone is fiery, but someone does not like the high temperature. There are cacti that do not care, forgiving us our mistakes, and there are whims with which even one mistake can become fatal. Be philosophical about the fact that some part of the seedlings will die for various reasons, but be sure to observe and analyze these reasons, and then the rest will grow and delight.
Author of the article Irina Bagdasarova