Fuchsia can be proud of his truly noble origin. The first plants were brought to Europe from Chile at the beginning of the 19th century, and since then flower breeders have bred hundreds of varieties, most of which are combined with both simple and double flowers under the name hybrid fuchsia (F. x hybrida). The source material was several wild species, including fuchsia magellanic (F. magellanica) with small but very beautiful flowers.
Fuchsia belongs to the donkey-cypress family (Onagraceae) and is named after the German doctor and botanist Leonard Fuchs. The birthplace of almost all fuchsia species is the tropics of Central and South America, where it grows in mountain forests. Fuchsias are also found in New Zealand.
Fuchsia is an evergreen subshrub. Long-petiolate green with strongly depressed veins and leaves are oval or ovate, but serrated to the edges, located opposite on the stems. Young stems and petioles are reddish. The flowers are solitary, axillary, hanging down like lanterns. They consist of a tubular calyx with four pointed, far-bent sepals and a bell-shaped corolla, which can be simple, semi-double and double. Stamens and pistil hang from under the corolla skirt.
Care for Fuchsia - in the Encyclopedia of Houseplants section.
Fuchsia is a very unpretentious houseplant. Even a novice amateur who has no experience can take care of her. For this, fuchsia has gained great popularity in indoor floriculture. Here are its advantages:
- Dimensions: at home, most fuchsias reach 40-80 cm in height.
- Survivability: With proper care, fuchsia grows in indoor conditions for many years.
- Growth rate: Fuchsia grows quickly, its stems lengthen by 20-30 cm per season.
- Flowering: Fuchsia blooms from spring to late autumn; for winter, the plant falls into a short dormant period. I remove the faded flowers.
Features of fuchsia care
Fuchsia lighting
Fuchsia feels best when the light is scattered, but it can also bloom when grown in shaded areas (north-oriented windows). Many reference books say that when growing fuchsia on the windowsills of the south side, it is better to shade the plant during the day. I can disagree with that. My fuchsias grow in the open sun and still feel great. Only the leaves from the direct sun "sunbathe" turn reddish.
Containment temperature
Since the homeland of fuchsia, used in the creation of most cultivated varieties, is the mountain forests of the tropics, it is natural that it is doing well in Europe. In winter, it is better to keep the plant in a cold (+ 6- + 8 g) room. In city apartments, such a place can be a cold windowsill, an insulated balcony or a place next to the balcony door. I bring my plants from the balcony (not insulated) into the room only when the temperature is below zero outside.
Humidity and watering fuchsia
The soil in the flower pot, during the growing season, should not dry out. But before watering, the top layer of the earth should dry out by 2-3 cm. If this condition is not met, the flowers fall. During the rest period (from late October to late January), I limit watering (but do not exclude it). I water the plant only when the soil in the pot dries by 2/3. All reference books recommend spraying fuchsia more often, because dry air is contraindicated for it. I do not spray my fuchsia, but periodically arrange a shower for them .
Soil and fuchsia transplantation
For good growth of fuchsia, the soil must be rich and extremely humus. For my plants, I buy garden land and bring it "to mind." I add perlite or vermiculite, coal, crushed coconut fiber, if possible, then you can add rotted cow or horse manure (there is no smell).
I transplant, as a rule, in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season. I replant old plants every 2-3 years, while cutting off some of the old roots. If the plant is not transplanted, then I replace the topsoil (about 2-3 cm).
Feeding fuchsia
As soon as the plant starts to grow, I begin to feed it regularly (1 once every 10 days). I use fertilizers for flowering plants. Of the mineral ones, I give preference to Kemira Lux. I alternate with organic, including diluted cowpea solution. Now this fertilizer can be bought in flower shops. If anyone is afraid of smell. I immediately say that the smell is not strong and only when I spread the fertilizer. After watering, when the solution has absorbed into the ground, there is no smell.
Fuchsia pruning
Pruning promotes more intense flowering. I spend the first pruning in late autumn, removing mostly thin, weak and damaged stems. In the spring, when new leaves appear, I carry out strong pruning, leaving only 2-3 buds at last year's growth. In the future, I constantly form a crown, pinching and trimming shoots.
Rest period in fuchsia
When the first frosts come, I bring the plants into the room. Before that, they grow on a glazed, but not insulated balcony. I cut back on watering. During this period of spraying, exclude! And until the end of January, I practically forget about them. There are my fuchsias on the windowsill next to the balcony door, which is almost always open. Fuchsia can winter in warmer conditions. In this case, it partially or completely dumps the foliage, and the shoots are strongly stretched. But this is not dangerous for the plant. With the onset of spring, bare stems should be cut off. Since mid-February, I gradually increase the watering. I start feeding only when the plant begins to grow actively.
Reproduction of fuchsias
Propagate fuchsia with cuttings 8-10 cm long. Root in vermiculite or plant in a pot with a mixture of earth and vermiculite. I cover the cuttings with either a perforated bag or a transparent plastic bottle, in which the bottom is cut off and I do not close the lid. Cuttings are better rooted at a temperature of 22-25 g. After 2-3 weeks, when roots appear, I transplant young plants to a permanent place. In order to observe the development of the roots, the cuttings are planted in transparent cups.
In young plants, I pinch the top of the shoot. As each new shoot appears, I also pinch the top after 2-3 leaves. 5-6 weeks before the expected flowering, I stop pinching shoots. The second method of reproduction is seed. In order to obtain seeds, it is necessary to carry out artificial pollination. So it is possible to pollinate different plants and get new hybrids.
Fuchsia stem tree formation
To form such a tree, I choose plants with one straight main stem and a well-developed root system. I remove all the side shoots, leaving only the main stem (I do not remove the leaves). I tie it to the support. When the plant reaches the desired height, pinch the top of the shoot. Side shoots that appear near the top of the main stem are pinched over the second or third leaf. A few years later, when the trunk grows fat, a small tree will bloom in your house all summer.
Height of the rod tree:
- If it is desktop, then its height should not exceed 10-40 cm.
- A low tree standing on the floor can be from 45 to 80 cm.
- The standard rod tree, which dominates the interior, reaches 105 cm.
Diseases and pests of fuchsia
It is damaged by aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, gray rot and rust. Personally, I had no problems with this. The most important thing is to keep the plant clean. To do this, I arrange a shower for them as needed. A weekly shower with hot water is an excellent prevention of spider mite on fuchsia. It is necessary to adjust the watering (do not pour the plant). Prophylactically (once every six months) I water the actara, it helps against shields, aphids and other pests.
Article author Tatyana Kuznetsova (Tatosha)