Most often, violets die from overflow with water, i.e. too frequent watering. Too wet substrate rots, and with it the roots of the plant. With a little waterlogging, the leaves turn yellow gradually, with a serious bay, the leaves lose their turgor: they become sluggish, not elastic, droop. With excessive soil moisture, a number of diseases occur, caused by both fungi and bacteria. It makes no sense to diagnose and try to treat by spraying or watering the plant with remedies for the disease - this is useless.
How to save a violet
If the plant dies from the bay, it can be tried to save:
- Remove the earthen lump from the pot. If it smells just damp earth, then you just need to eliminate excess moisture by putting it on several layers of toilet paper or cotton fabric, and change it as it gets wet. Return the plant to the pot in a day.
- If the earthen lump smells of rot and decomposition, it is necessary to remove part of the soil and decomposed roots. Living roots are white or light brown, while dead roots are black. Carefully, using a fork or a wooden pointed stick, you need to separate the roots. More often, decayed pieces of roots fall away along with the soil.
- Rinse the remains of an earthen coma in a solution of the drug "Maxim," in manganese, etc., let excess moisture drain or dry, as mentioned above.
- Roll carefully in a 1:1 mixture of dry river sand and vermiculite.
- Due to the loss of part of the roots, the plant will not be able to support flowering, so it is necessary to remove all peduncles and lower large leaves by sprinkling broken coal with crushed coal. Pour drainage, a
- layer of soil about 1 cm into a pot, the diameter of which is slightly more than the diameter of the remains of an earthen coma, lower the diseased plant into the pot and sprinkle it on top. In the soil, which is used for healthy violets, it is necessary to add more vermiculite and pure river sand 2:1:1, then it can be used to transplant sick plants.
- Insert a few pieces of charcoal (or activated charcoal tablets) around the perimeter of the pot.
- Keep the plant in a warm place, do not water until the top layer starts to dry out, then water very carefully, warm, boiled water.
- After landing, you can spray "Epin," or "Zircon," diluted according to the instructions. After processing, keep the plant in a warm, dry and dark place for 6-8 hours. Then you can rearrange into the light.
- If the violet survives, the growth of new young leaves will begin, then it can be removed from the pot again, dusted off the soil containing a large amount of sand and planted in a more nutritious substrate.
How to avoid flooding flowers
What can be done to avoid flooding plants, even if watered by another person in your absence:
1. The size of the pot should correspond to the grade and size of the outlet. The diameter of the outlet should be 2.5-3 times the diameter of the pot (see photo). Pots with a diameter of more than 9-10 cm - not suitable for violets, except for trailer varieties,
2. In pots made of different materials, and different probability of soil acidification. Ceramic pots are more likely to overdrill. Collectors do not use them. Pots made of thick plastic do not deform when you take it in your hands, the soil does not peel off the walls, on the contrary, it sticks to the walls. In such a pot, the greatest danger of flooding the plant.
A container made of thin and flexible plastic deforms with light compression, an air gap forms between the wall and the earthen lump, the soil dries up faster, the roots breathe better. In such a pot, there is more likelihood of overdrying. When watered, water often simply flows down the walls of the pot without wetting the ground. This is indicated by two factors: at the same time as watering, water appears in the pallet, and the pot remains light in weight, as before watering.
3. Soil containing a sufficient amount of vermiculite almost never turns sour. In all purchased soils, its content is not enough, or it is not at all. Purchased soil of a very dark, almost black color is made on the basis of lowland peat, which turns sour very quickly, it is better not to use such soils at all.
It is necessary to buy soil containing reddish-brown, coarsely fibrous horse peat. Thus, vermiculite or perlite should be added to suitable purchased soil or garden land, based on 5 liters of soil 0.5-0.7 liters of vermiculite. It absorbs moisture well, and then gradually gives it away. It is advisable to add a full handful of cut (up to 0.5 cm) sphagnum moss and 0.5 cups of small pieces of charcoal as an antibacterial component.
4. It is necessary to make drainage to the bottom of the pot, preferably from medium expanded clay.
5. The tray should be wide and not deep, then the excess water will spread out in a wide, but not deep layer, not exceeding the drainage layer. Excess water is drained 15-30 minutes after watering, but in such a tray, even if water is not removed, it quickly evaporates without harming the plant, and the humidity of the air around increases.
6. Often, soil acidification is associated with hypothermia of an earthen coma. In the cold, dark season, even in a warm room on the windowsill, the temperature can be 10 ° C lower than in the room.
Heavy watering in such conditions is very dangerous. The air contained in the pores of the soil is a heat insulator, and displacing the air, the water quickly cools on the windowsill, and the roots are supercooled.
Diseases in such conditions have a lightning-fast course. You can isolate from a cold windowsill using foam plastic and other similar materials. And you can only water in cold weather (it should be warm to the touch).
7. Watering is strictly dosed. To do this, it is convenient to use plastic bottles, in the covers of which a juice tube is tightly inserted. Water flows out in a thin stream, you can't accidentally mold too much.
Water must be poured until it appears in a small amount in the pallet. Before watering, it would be good to check each pot by weight: heavy - like those that have just watered, and if the top layer remained wet from the previous watering. Such a plant must be taken under control. If after a day the soil did not dry out, then there was an overflow.
8. Overdrying the plant threatens with an overflow, as it sounds paradoxical. With severe re-drying, small young roots die (they simply dry out). With abundant watering, the plant, due to the loss of roots, cannot absorb all the moisture, and the soil turns sour and begins to rot.
When replanting, the plant is watered gradually, little by little, but more often. If during re-drying all the leaves and old and young, it means that all the roots also died, it is no longer possible to save the plant.
What violet doesn't like
- Watering too much
- Severe overdraft
- Uneven watering
- Cold, long-term content at ground temperature below 16 ° С
- Heat, long-term content at temperature more than 27 ° С
- Direct sunlight
- Drafts
- Too high concentration of nitrogen in the soil, watering with manure infusion, excessive fertilization
- Alkaline soil with high salt content
- Too high humidity and too low humidity
- Attack of insects: thrips, shields. Ticks can only lead to the death of children
- Heavy soil
If all of the above does not threaten violets, then they are very resistant to diseases.
Is it possible to destroy the causative agents of the disease by heat treatment of the soil or chemicals? No, it isn't. You can only destroy pests by warming up: earthworms, some insect pests.
It is known that after some experiment, nematode larvae survived in the soil during a two-hour treatment of the earth at temperatures above 100 ° C.
Fungal spores, bacteria survive even in space. Therefore, heat treatment only partially disinfects the substrate. But the soil structure is destroyed by prolonged heating. It is necessary to process not long, and not more than at 75 ° C. The most convenient way is in the microwave - as soon as the ground is hot to the touch, stop heating.
The author of the article Rusinova T.A.
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