Treatment of hippeastrum rot

 

I will tell you about the treatment from my own experience.
I received my long-awaited order in early June. She began to examine the bulbs carefully. One of the bulbs seemed soft to me, besides, dark spots with red strokes alerted me on dry scales (photo1).

I decided to take off my scales and saw the rot (photo 2).
After removing the upper scales, I found a small internal rot (photo 3) and rot on the bottom (photo 4).

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Cut out all the rot with a clean knife. The sections were treated with brilliant green (photo 5).

Dried (2 hours) and processed in Maxim. Maxim bred 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. In this solution, the onion soaked for 30 minutes (photo 6).

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After processing in Maxim, the onion was put in a dry dark place and dried for about two days. Before planting, she removed the subverted roots (after processing in Maxim, rotten roots dry out and are easily removed). Powdered donets with root and planted in the ground with vermiculite .

A few days later, a gray coating appeared on the bottom of the onion and the scales continued to wet (photo 7).

This happened due to waterlogging of the soil. The soil dried for a long time, there were no young roots yet. She again removed the wet scales, scraped the gray coating with a knife and washed it in a manganese solution (average concentration) (photo 8).
In photo 8, red spots on the sections are mechanical damage, you do not need to remove them.

She dried it and put it back in the ground, only this time she did not deepen it, but made a small hole, added vermiculite to it and put the onion with a bottom, without sprinkling it with earth. Where there was no donets, I put a small jar (photo 9).

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After that, every day she loosened the soil, watered only as it dried. Two or three weeks after flowering, I found a rotten peduncle (photo 10).

I carefully removed it with tweezers. Once again carefully examined the onion, there was no rot. In early August, the bulb had new roots and leaves began to grow. In November, the onion was with good leaves (photo 11).

So, the hippeastrum survived, where the bottom remained, grew roots, and many children appeared from the sides of the bulb. Here he is at the end of March during a transplant (before being sent to rest) (photo 12).

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How to treat rot

My recommendations: found rot - do not panic, almost any onion can be saved. It is important to create the right conditions after treatment.

1. Be sure to inspect the bulb before planting. Symptoms of rot: the bulb is soft to the touch (it should be noted that immediately after flowering, the bulb can dry out and be with voids, this is normal, since it spent energy on flowering); the upper scales on the bulb are soft, slimy, may be red-spotted; dry or wet red spots on the bottom; sudden red strokes on leaves and roots (I will immediately make a reservation that redness on leaves and roots, and bulb can be mechanical damage or thermal burn, only it does not suddenly occur and does not develop further); the roots are soft, slimy, with redness (healthy hippeastrum roots are white, if the roots are black, slimy - rot).

2. I will say a little about the stages of development. If the rot is found in the flowering stage, and the bulb has noticeably weakened, then it is better to remove the peduncles. In the vegetation stage, you cultivate, plant, in a couple of days while it is without soil, nothing will happen to it (after processing in Maxim, the roots will tighten a little, but it will quickly grow them). At rest - processed and removed to a dry dark place (just not in the refrigerator, it's humid there), you can put it in a pot with vermiculite (or in sawdust, or wrapped in hygroscopic fabric, for example, in burlap) and at first be sure to watch it so that the rot does not develop further.

3. About drugs. From rot in bulbs help: Maxim, fundazol, oxychome, vitaros, manganese.

4. Before planting, for better root formation, you can powder with root or spill the ground with a solution of heterauxin with zircon.

5. When planting, good drainage and properly selected capacity are important (the pot should be 2 cm larger than the onion).

6. It is not worth burying the badly affected onion, it is better to plant it so that later you can add land.

7. It is advisable to choose a place on the windowsill so that the bare onion does not fall under the scorching sun (this is from about 12 to 16 hours, although we all have different lighting conditions), until the top scales dry out. Do not forget that hippeastrums are photophilous and they need light for recovery (so do not put the bulb in a dark corner ).

8. Do not arrange a swamp, watering should be as it dries and in no case should water fall on the bulb during watering.

9. Until the bulb has good roots, it is necessary to loosen the soil every day.

10. Feed the weakened bulb not earlier than in 1.5-2 months.

11. High humidity and sudden temperature changes can lead to another decay of the bulb. Humidity can be controlled with vermiculite. Feel that the soil dries badly, added vermiculite. The average temperature during flowering and growing hail. 20, during the rest period - hail. 15.

12. During the growing season, you can spill the soil with Maxim or phytosporin, or trichodermin.

Author of the article: Elena Talantova (Elena)